Search found 88 matches

by MarkR
Wed Nov 28, 2012 5:33 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: The direct slab finish on Centerfold?
Replies: 10
Views: 4781

Re: The direct slab finish on Centerfold?

Anders Ourom wrote:The original descent trail was to the south, then back around under the powerlines and along the base. It's probably now overgrown, if not covered in slash.
I tried it last year as it was my first time at the Papoose and both my guidebooks pointed me South. It's a sh*t show down there.
by MarkR
Tue Nov 27, 2012 9:51 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: moderate route developers dream post!
Replies: 11
Views: 5188

Re: moderate route developers dream post!

You could just tell us where it is. Maybe throw up a photo or two to inspire route setters.

If being secretive isn't your intention then why all the song and dance?
by MarkR
Mon Nov 26, 2012 7:43 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: winter climbing in squamish
Replies: 5
Views: 7803

Re: winter climbing in squamish

Not a dumb question at all. If it's sunny some things dry out very quickly. You may get a bit of dampness in the cracks sometimes, but often it can be great. Advice: Stay in the sun. It'll be unpleasantly cold if you don't. Start late, give the rock a chance to warm up. Smoke Bluffs are the name of ...
by MarkR
Sun Oct 14, 2012 9:23 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Jingus the Cat - Crux Hold Missing
Replies: 4
Views: 2561

Re: Jingus the Cat - Crux Hold Missing

I was wondering about this too. I thought the crux was the thin bit a few meters below the bolt. Did part of the rock at the crack come off?
by MarkR
Thu Oct 11, 2012 2:02 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Trees Cut at Pet Wall
Replies: 20
Views: 6578

Re: Trees Cut at Pet Wall

I haven't seen the trees in question, but I'm always in the favour of clearing trees to maximize light and wind near crags. Our province is thick with trees and I've never been convinced climbers have a significant effect on them.
by MarkR
Tue Sep 18, 2012 12:02 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Exasperator a bit dirty...
Replies: 15
Views: 6187

Re: Exasperator a bit dirty...

Good to hear that the anchor still feels like it's in a good spot. While up there we were contemplating moving, (or adding) the top anchor to the very top of that hand crack, just before it meets Peasant's Route. It would still be a sub-30m rap back to the top of the first pitch, and you'd get almo...
by MarkR
Mon Sep 17, 2012 2:31 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Slhany (sic?) - right wing
Replies: 16
Views: 5433

Re: Slhany (sic?) - right wing

Where you guys in the tie dye shirts? We had doubles and triples 0.5 to .75 and I had hardly anything left by the time I lunged for the platform :P Having said that I was placing a lot of gear, something I tend to due when I am getting pumped, and that pitch just doesn't let up! Such a great pitch,...
by MarkR
Sun Sep 16, 2012 8:32 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Where to direct a suggestion?
Replies: 2
Views: 1794

Re: Where to direct a suggestion?

Yeah, got on it Saturday and was planning on rapping off that tat, then shook my head and left a biner. Rings would be nice, I just don't have the know-how. And yeah, machete recommended for the approach and beginning. Not joking. That trail is disappearing and you have to scramble through prickle b...
by MarkR
Sun Sep 16, 2012 8:23 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Theft at the North Walls
Replies: 6
Views: 2528

Re: Theft at the North Walls

Yeah, saw broken glass when I came down from Angel's Crest on the 6th. So lame. If you ever see someone pulling this sh*t beat them with a #4.

Good point about leaving Jackpots though, I always do without really thinking about it.
by MarkR
Sun Sep 16, 2012 8:15 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Slhany (sic?) - right wing
Replies: 16
Views: 5433

Re: Slhany (sic?) - right wing

Climbed it today. No where near linking the pitches.

Seriously. That pitch is fucked up.
by MarkR
Tue Sep 11, 2012 10:03 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Favourite pitch in Squamish - any grade - any style
Replies: 32
Views: 14847

Re: Favourite pitch in Squamish - any grade - any style

Crack: Exasperator

Sport: No Name Road
by MarkR
Tue Sep 11, 2012 9:59 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: If Squish is soft, what should get downgraded?
Replies: 6
Views: 2499

If Squish is soft, what should get downgraded?

I don't have a series of old guidebooks, but I've been told that one can track fairly linear grade-creep from one edition to the next. I think grades should be a dynamic quantity that should adjust as consensus builds, but it seems nobody wants to downgrade the soft, just upgrade the stiff. So what ...
by MarkR
Wed Aug 22, 2012 12:18 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Is Squamish Soft?
Replies: 83
Views: 17276

Re: Is Squamish Soft?

Yep.

I'd love to hear Marc Bourdon and Kevin McClane's thoughts on grade creep. Too bad they never post here.
by MarkR
Thu Aug 16, 2012 7:41 am
Forum: Find A Partner
Topic: Rope gun/partner available this week for 5.10 multipitches
Replies: 2
Views: 804

Re: Rope gun/partner available this week for 5.10 multipitch

I sorted out partners for this week but I have a similar problem for next week. Contact me if you need a partner for Wednesday or Thursday next week.
by MarkR
Tue Aug 14, 2012 5:19 pm
Forum: Find A Partner
Topic: Rope gun/partner available this week for 5.10 multipitches
Replies: 2
Views: 804

Rope gun/partner available this week for 5.10 multipitches

I've got the week off and all my partners are working or out of town. I'd like to tick Jungle Warfare or Birds of Prey, but could be convinced to try other 5.10-/5.10 routes too. I can lead all pitches, but happy to swap leads if you want to share. If you can lead harder I'd be happy to hold the rop...