Search found 75 matches

by damien
Fri Aug 27, 2010 10:20 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Wire Tap
Replies: 111
Views: 65267

P1

A friend leading the 35m first pitch of Wiretap. http://lh3.ggpht.com/_4iJqO0wjcMc/THf9UVtG8wI/AAAAAAAAAUk/vPb1ucVybg8/s800/38465_466708221040_538726040_6656319_5255004_n.jpg You can see Rumble in the Jungle(5.ate) in the blocky corner, Eaves Drop (11a) goes up the face features right of the rope, a...
by damien
Fri Aug 20, 2010 6:32 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Slab Alley Restoration Project
Replies: 85
Views: 39847

(It would be possible, but awkward, to combine pitches 1 & 2, or 2 & 3 - rope drag, communications issues.) Perhaps if one was linking p1-p2, they could climb the crack behind the P1 tree and slab above to regain the tail end of the traverse crack. Then go more directly to the P2 belay reducing dra...
by damien
Tue Aug 17, 2010 9:42 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Public Safety Issue - Europa/Crap Crags
Replies: 17
Views: 5735

Grass won't hold boulders in... ...When it does grow back over and becomes infrequently climbed it will probably be a good thing. That's what I am getting at. Assist the revegetation process. Prevent more erosional exposure of boulders & promote soil retension, root growth, and generally stabilize ...
by damien
Tue Aug 17, 2010 6:57 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Public Safety Issue - Europa/Crap Crags
Replies: 17
Views: 5735

Slope stabilization

Perhaps there is a slope stabilization technique that could be employed to mitigate the erosion? Along the highway, Keiwit or Highways have used some wheat-type plant and also Lupins for stabilization. Parks may know of some indigenous plant that could be seeded onto the unstable sections. This woul...
by damien
Wed Aug 04, 2010 6:13 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Wire Tap
Replies: 111
Views: 65267

scrubber wrote: This cliff as a whole has the potential to have quite a few quality (mostly single pitch) routes on it and be a very desirable destination in it's own right.
If anyone is considering developing new routes there, drop me a line and we might be able to co-ordinate efforts.
by damien
Tue Aug 03, 2010 9:32 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Wire Tap
Replies: 111
Views: 65267

t-bone wrote: I think you could safely call Wiretap either easy 10a or solid 5.9

A friend's opinion is that the grades are stiff. Let the guidebook gods sort it out.
by damien
Mon Aug 02, 2010 11:13 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New routes at Papoose
Replies: 7
Views: 4160

pretty sure the aid line is a to or three meters to the right of it.
by damien
Sat Jul 31, 2010 10:16 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New routes at Papoose
Replies: 7
Views: 4160

There is a mostly bolted route which ascends to the first anchor of Hairpin from the ground. Anyone know anything about it?
by damien
Sat Jul 31, 2010 10:02 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New start to Calculus Crack
Replies: 40
Views: 20064

Unfortunately the updrafts are really bad in that area. If it's dry enough to sweep, then the air is usually going up. The entire thing was swept twice after the scrubbing was finished and I may have ended up with more fine dust up high than I started with... I can relate. Moot point really though ...
by damien
Fri Jul 30, 2010 9:24 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New start to Calculus Crack
Replies: 40
Views: 20064

Stellar addition! Went up today. made of for an all climbing route up the north apron, rather than two pitches of trees for two good pitches of calculus crack. P1: watch for that fuzzy flake. Definitely 5.9, getting into the corner seemed to be the crux. Nice climbing. P2: a good extension of the fi...
by damien
Fri Jul 30, 2010 9:18 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: new last pitch for the Squamish buttress, 5.9
Replies: 13
Views: 7595

Easiest route to the summit of the Chief?
by damien
Thu Jul 29, 2010 7:16 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Wire Tap
Replies: 111
Views: 65267

t-bone wrote:I didn't know Orphan got upgraded to 5.9...? It was definitely a 5.8+ but not sure about 5.9.
Upgraded. Mclane's newer Squamish Guide has it as 5.9
by damien
Thu Jul 29, 2010 3:26 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Wire Tap
Replies: 111
Views: 65267

Comparing to Orphan , Clandestine Affair, and the lower bit of Pennylane I again think this part of the climb is only 5.9. The topo still reads 10a. Thoughts? [old man voice] When I started climbing Orphan was called Minutia and it was "benchmark 5.8"[/old man voice] :lol: ...and you had to climb i...
by damien
Wed Jul 28, 2010 4:55 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Wire Tap
Replies: 111
Views: 65267

-I thought the first pitch of Wiretap was a soft 10a I recently re-climbed wiretap to the top of pitch four. I tend to agree with T-bone. The p1 was not nearly as challenging as I recalled. BETA: I originally climbed the crack only, but this time i stemmed off of the pillar, and was able to grab wi...
by damien
Fri Jul 16, 2010 12:40 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Cleaning Projects List
Replies: 17
Views: 5245

Another good mossing climb

Murrin Park, Shaman