Search found 66 matches

by hans
Tue Apr 17, 2012 9:28 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Hanging Gardens at the Papoose
Replies: 25
Views: 23764

Re: Hanging Gardens at the Papoose

We slung the tree and it seemed fine for the second. It's a good climb, and deserves traffic. Thanks again.
by hans
Sun Apr 08, 2012 6:41 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Hanging Gardens at the Papoose
Replies: 25
Views: 23764

Re: Hanging Gardens at the Papoose

Nice route, outstanding even. And good job scrubbing.

The grades you proposed seem reasonable. The second pitch may be easier, espelly if you're tall. I'm not.

Thanks a lot for the effort.
by hans
Sun Jul 17, 2011 1:44 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New routes above and beyond area
Replies: 22
Views: 19032

Re: New routes above and beyond area

Thanks. I've seen that trail and wondered where it went.
by hans
Sun Jul 17, 2011 6:33 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New routes above and beyond area
Replies: 22
Views: 19032

Re: New routes above and beyond area

Where does the Squaw approach start?
by hans
Mon Jun 06, 2011 8:33 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: 5.10 crack testpieces
Replies: 33
Views: 13979

Re: 5.10 crack testpieces

Split pillar is way harder than the sail flake imo. Not even close.
by hans
Sun Jun 05, 2011 4:10 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: 5.10 crack testpieces
Replies: 33
Views: 13979

Re: 5.10 crack testpieces

I've been wanting to give liquid gold a try.

Maybe not testpieces, but:
Neat and cool
Sunblessed p2
Centrefold p2
Squamish Buttress crux pitch
Exasperator
Apron Strings p1
Blazing Saddles p2
Mercy Street
Split pillar (ok, this IS sustained)
by hans
Fri Feb 11, 2011 10:27 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: ACL
Replies: 8
Views: 2593

I had a hamstring graft about 5 or 6 years ago. Lots of cycling helped my rehab. At the time I was more of a roadie than a climber, and I was racing bikes 2 months post op. I had good results after 6 months or so, and the biggest issue was the hamstring to be honest. Give it time, rehab religously, ...
by hans
Wed Sep 08, 2010 2:49 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: The Milk Road - 9p, 5.10d A0 (5.11d)
Replies: 31
Views: 12623

Don't change anything

The last pitch belay is pretty clear from the topo, and it's also the resposibility of a leader to think of the second anytime there is traversing. I think it's fine. I did find it intimidating to get started on the dyke pitch though, but that was me, not the bolting. And it's not a big deal to brin...
by hans
Sat Aug 07, 2010 5:41 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Favorite Small Gear for Squamish Granite?
Replies: 12
Views: 2657

I like metolius mastercams, tcu's not so much. Have used c3s and I'm not that impressed (but better than tcu's). Aliens seem good. Never tried wild country
by hans
Thu Jun 24, 2010 8:51 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Bolted start to Angel's Crack
Replies: 13
Views: 3391

The slab start has been there a while as far as I know. To find it go up the gully past the regular start heading towards the tree start. You should be able to see the first bolt at least. It's a long pitch to the base of the Angel crack, bolts and gear, watch for rope drag. There is another variati...
by hans
Wed May 12, 2010 5:35 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Camalot trigger repair
Replies: 3
Views: 1126

MEC sells trigger wire kits for camalots. You can fix it yourself pretty easily.
by hans
Fri Nov 20, 2009 6:20 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Bugaboo grades vs Squamish
Replies: 5
Views: 2257

I think it's about the same, although there is the odd sandbag (Roof McTech comes to mind)

The only thing I've found is that a lot of routes in the Bugs have offwidths, which I ususally avoid, and so those parts feel really hard to me.
by hans
Tue Sep 08, 2009 5:07 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: route recommendations around banff
Replies: 6
Views: 1650

I second the Grand Sentinel. There is a trad route on it as well.

I really enjoyed Homage to the Spider, on Mt Louis.
by hans
Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:29 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: The Upper Black Dyke - 4p, 5.10b
Replies: 24
Views: 10628

Fun route

My wife and I climbed the UBD yesterday, and it was a lot of fun. It sort of feels like Skaha climbing, but on choss. There is still a bit of dirt, and I imagine a good rain would help a lot. There are loose rocks here and there, but it was obviously a LOT worse before. It's a bit run out in places,...
by hans
Fri Jun 19, 2009 9:57 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Climbing ethics
Replies: 20
Views: 5176

:lol:

That's about what I thought. It seemed rather ridiculous at the time, and clearly his reaction was a bit over the top, but I was wondering then, and now, if I had committed some sort of faux pas.