Search found 66 matches

by hans
Fri Oct 05, 2012 3:36 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Unheralded Squamish classics
Replies: 8
Views: 4779

Unheralded Squamish classics

I'm liking the Top 100 list in the new Squamish Select guidebook, as I'm finding myself exploring some new climbs and areas in an attempt to fill in the gaps. But I can't help but wonder about the great climbs that didn't make the cut. What are your favorite Squamish climbs that, say, didn't get as ...
by hans
Sun Sep 30, 2012 7:52 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Slhany (sic?) - right wing
Replies: 16
Views: 5008

Re: Slhany (sic?) - right wing

Got on this today. We used the hanging belay, alhough it seemed reasonable to link the pitches. The first corner pitch eats up 0.5 and 0.75 cams, while the second part used 2's and 3's at the cruxy bits. There were lots of rests from time to time, although there was a lot of tiring laybacking betwee...
by hans
Thu Sep 27, 2012 6:06 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Bullethead East (4p, 10c) & Rainy Day Woman (4p, 11b)
Replies: 26
Views: 15744

Re: Bullethead East (4p, 10c) & Rainy Day Woman (4p, 11b)

My wife and I climbed Bullethead East last summer, right after a two week trip to the Gunks, and we both thought it was incredibly soft. Gunks 5.9 or 5.9+ at most. Having climbed it again this summer, I think it's probably reasonable compared to other climbs, though probably overgraded by a letter g...
by hans
Mon Sep 24, 2012 11:08 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Video: Grand Wall whipper
Replies: 7
Views: 2924

Re: Video: Grand Wall whipper

That's ok. I scare easily.

Good effort, and good on you to get right back up there.
by hans
Mon Sep 24, 2012 6:09 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Video: Grand Wall whipper
Replies: 7
Views: 2924

Re: Video: Grand Wall whipper

I was up on Cruel Shoes yesterday and saw a guy fall from just below the thank god hold on the pillar. For some reason he didn't have a 3 placed, and so he fell almost all the way to his belayer. It was at least 50 feet, maybe more.

I was scared just watching it.
by hans
Fri Sep 14, 2012 8:29 am
Forum: Find A Partner
Topic: need a partner - Sat Sep 15
Replies: 1
Views: 339

Re: need a partner - Sat Sep 15

My usual partner is sick so I'd be interested. I've done Hairpin this year so if you have something else in mind that would be better for me, but Hairpin is good too. Are you interested in doing more than just the one route?

Hans
by hans
Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:19 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Favourite pitch in Squamish - any grade - any style
Replies: 32
Views: 13392

Re: Favourite pitch in Squamish - any grade - any style

Ok, I can't pick just one.

P2 of Everything Under the Sun
Wonderland
Crescent Crack
P2 of Grub St Complex
P2 of Blazing Saddles
P3 of Borderline
P4 of Liquid Gold
Garield
Slap and Tickle
Split Beaver
P1 of Great Game
by hans
Sun Sep 09, 2012 3:41 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Krimo Gold a new route in the Bulletheads
Replies: 12
Views: 4885

Re: Krimo Gold a new route in the Bulletheads

So I was up.there yesterday and climbed Liquid Gold for the first time. Wow, that route is amazing! FWIW I thought the wide parts were a lot of fun, and pretty burly. Highly recommended. Having said that, Krimo Gold looks good too. Certainly worth doing if you have already done Liquid Gold. Thanks f...
by hans
Thu Aug 23, 2012 4:25 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Rapping into south gully from the apron
Replies: 5
Views: 2040

Re: Rapping into south gully from the apron

I haven't done it this year, but I seem to recall it being pretty straightforward. Bolted anchors, good stances, except the last one which was a bit small? It puts you just below the start of Rock On.
by hans
Mon Jul 23, 2012 4:40 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New start to Calculus Crack
Replies: 40
Views: 18494

Re: New start to Calculus Crack

I've done four, and I think there is at least five.
by hans
Fri Jul 13, 2012 2:01 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Loose block on Angels Crest
Replies: 0
Views: 623

Loose block on Angels Crest

On the second from last pitch, above the piton and below the chimney, in the left crack, is a big and very loose block. It shifted when I touched it.
Be aware. It needs to be trundled at a safe time.
by hans
Mon May 28, 2012 4:39 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Route at the Solarium
Replies: 6
Views: 5490

Re: New Route at the Solarium

I thought I'd resurrect this old thread to give this route and its developers some props. A couple of weeks ago I was up there and climbed this for the first time, and I have to say that it is fantastic. In particular the second pitch is outstanding . I hadn't heard of anyone climbing it, so I broug...
by hans
Mon May 28, 2012 4:16 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Tick marks
Replies: 6
Views: 1801

Tick marks

I took a lap up Banana Peel yesterday and couldn't believe all the tick marks on the "key holds". Some of them were over a foot long. I noticed this on Angels Crest last year as well.

I can't imagine why this is necessary, or who would do it.
by hans
Tue May 15, 2012 9:05 pm
Forum: Lost & Found
Topic: Lost chalk bag
Replies: 0
Views: 387

Lost chalk bag

I dropped it off the top of the split pillar. Pretty sure it fell to the bottom. Went back and couldn't find it. It's a Black Diamond, light brown, quite beat up, with a yellow brush on it. It probably sounds silly but it has some sentimenal value.

hgbauck at gmail.com
by hans
Wed Apr 25, 2012 5:39 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Smoke Bluffs Park Top Ten Climbs
Replies: 26
Views: 18172

Re: Smoke Bluffs Park Top Ten Climbs

+1 for Centre Street, Supervalue, Penny Lane, Split Beaver, and Neat and Cool.

I also like Partners in Crime, Geritol, Yorkshire Gripper, Climb and Punishment, and Wonderland.