Search found 396 matches

by Dru
Fri Apr 27, 2012 2:27 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Smoke Bluffs Park Top Ten Climbs
Replies: 27
Views: 25163

Re: Smoke Bluffs Park Top Ten Climbs

Sky Dancing
Gord's Block
Talking Holds
Old Age
The Zip
Laughing Crack
Wonderland
Sphinxter Quits
Orifice Fish
the beav
First Class
Easter Island
Neat and Cool
Popeye and the Raven
Partners in Crime
Skulduggery
Nubile Woman
Unearthly Delights
20 Minute Workout
Burgers and Fries
by Dru
Sat Apr 21, 2012 9:25 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Starter trad rack for Squamish?
Replies: 9
Views: 3502

Re: Starter trad rack for Squamish?

Not a really convincing argument. :roll: For the same cost as two link cams I can buy three to four other cams (non-Omega) that cover the same total range, weigh less, don't get stuck as easily, and best of all don't break. And then I have four pieces to place instead of two.
by Dru
Fri Apr 20, 2012 8:29 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Starter trad rack for Squamish?
Replies: 9
Views: 3502

Re: Starter trad rack for Squamish?

If you've got cash to burn, pick up a couple small Link Cams. Link Cams will apparently break in a fall if you about so much as look at them. every week there is a new story about someone whipping on one and having it snap, sometimes with tragic consequences. Personally I'd rather spend my cash on ...
by Dru
Sun Apr 01, 2012 7:16 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Climbing near Hope.
Replies: 1
Views: 1004

Re: Climbing near Hope.

Mostly bouldering but there are a couple routes. Short season due to north facing and wet. Also hard to get to the top of most lines for cleaning purposes except ground-up scrubbing while you go.

Nicolum Knob hasa the most routes since it is south facing and sunny and has a much longer dry season.
by Dru
Sat Mar 24, 2012 4:42 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Mysterious Anchor on Prow Wall
Replies: 5
Views: 2371

Re: Mysterious Anchor on Pan Wall

I always wondered if those had been climbed. Isn't that the Prow Wall though?
by Dru
Sun Mar 11, 2012 1:22 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Trojan Warning?
Replies: 0
Views: 813

Trojan Warning?

I keep getting a warning message from my antivirus when I visit Squamishclimbing that "stats.stacktools.net access count PHP" has been blocked due to it being infected by a trojan. Also when I try to PM Squamish Climber (Dave Jones, site admin) I get a "user does not exist" error message. Has Squami...
by Dru
Tue Feb 21, 2012 2:03 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: The Little Smoke Bluffs
Replies: 27
Views: 7976

Re: The Little Smoke Bluffs

And if the chainsaw doesn't work, napalm? Agent Orange?

Not every cliff needs to stay clean. If it doesn't get the traffic to keep it clean it's better off growing moss.
by Dru
Sun Feb 19, 2012 6:46 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: The Little Smoke Bluffs
Replies: 27
Views: 7976

Re: The Little Smoke Bluffs

I dont know If they've ever been cleaned since they were first ascent in '83.. Yes, they were fully scrubbed around 2003, although you'd never know it now because they grew over again in around 10 minutes. Are you referring to the cracks right of the roof being scrubbed in '03? If so, WOW. Yes. The...
by Dru
Sun Feb 19, 2012 2:47 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: The Little Smoke Bluffs
Replies: 27
Views: 7976

Re: The Little Smoke Bluffs

gnarnaphobe wrote: I dont know If they've ever been cleaned since they were first ascent in '83..
Yes, they were fully scrubbed around 2003, although you'd never know it now because they grew over again in around 10 minutes.
by Dru
Sun Feb 12, 2012 9:20 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Climbing policies
Replies: 10
Views: 2992

Re: Climbing policies

Or maybe the wall on the other side of the valley from McIntyre, behind the KOA campground? In which case the phrase "provincial park" should give cause for concern since it's Vaseaux Lake park and that has some major cliff bird nesting areas. IIRC Robin B and Guy E did a bunch of route development ...
by Dru
Fri Jan 20, 2012 4:08 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Local climber Jason Kruk makes historic ascent of compressor
Replies: 25
Views: 6749

Re: Local climber Jason Kruk makes historic ascent of compre

Um because it is considered a desecration of the mountain by many?
by Dru
Fri Jan 20, 2012 9:00 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Local climber Jason Kruk makes historic ascent of compressor
Replies: 25
Views: 6749

Re: Local climber Jason Kruk makes historic ascent of compre

The story is they used 5 bolts on the way up - placed by hand on lead by Chris Geisler last year off the route of the Meastri line on new ground..

And on the way down they chopped the Maestri bolt ladder.
by Dru
Thu Jan 19, 2012 6:47 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Iceclimbing - the bluffs?
Replies: 4
Views: 1631

Re: Iceclimbing - the bluffs?

Smoke Bluff Wall has the most ice including Alice, the Myld Thing (Killer Fridge area) and various stuff to the left as far as Frozen Zombie. Alice has some bolts but they are usually covered by ice. Krack Rock has ice. Up and right of Krack near Cabin Boy's Office the obscure route "Gumby's Inversi...
by Dru
Sun Jan 15, 2012 1:26 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Dry Tooling
Replies: 14
Views: 4477

Re: Dry Tooling

actually speaking of drytooling, there is one unclimbed line that would probably make an awesome turf route at the Reabilitation Projects in the right (cold) conditions. Basically the gully to the right of Memphis Bound. 50m long with thick, thick moss, lots of dirt, positive edges and a 2 inch crac...
by Dru
Sat Jan 14, 2012 5:52 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Dry Tooling
Replies: 14
Views: 4477

Re: Dry Tooling

The UBD was climbed when the last two pitches were all ice, and even then they used rock shoes and bare hands on the first two pitches. Likewise Diedre was all ice when it was climbed at WI3. Climbing either of them with no ice is straight up dumb. You might as well dry tool Corn Flakes or Kangaroo ...