Search found 396 matches

by Dru
Wed Jun 27, 2012 8:13 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Heatwave cracks
Replies: 6
Views: 2068

Re: Heatwave cracks

The first time I climbed the Buttress there were something like 5 fixed pins on the crux. Now the last one is gone. Same with Neat and Cool. Used to have 4 fixed pins on the lower finger crack. I think every single one came out when someone fell on them, not all at once though. Kinda makes you think...
by Dru
Wed Jun 27, 2012 8:09 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Looking for pre Campbell Squamish Guides
Replies: 3
Views: 879

Re: Looking for pre Campbell Squamish Guides

I've got guidebooks all the way back to Glenn's original.
Pretty sure the cliff you mention has never been written up before even if it does have old routes on it.
by Dru
Wed Jun 27, 2012 8:08 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Recommended approach to Star Chek
Replies: 9
Views: 2980

Re: Recommended approach to Star Chek

If the water's high crossing that loose scree pile to the base without an ice axe is a quick way to die.

I've done both ways a bunch and the rap in is faster and much safer.
by Dru
Sat Jun 23, 2012 8:43 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Rambles (4p, 5.8)
Replies: 58
Views: 17636

Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Crystal Burst starts right of Rambles, goes up to cross the start of Rambles p2 traverse crack, and finishes well out left in the trees. Mickey Mouse joins Rambles near the end of Rambles p2 and then moves left and up a bit to the fault. Brent Nixon's route Mighty Mouse climbs the hanging corner abo...
by Dru
Fri Jun 15, 2012 6:25 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: papoose unknown climb
Replies: 4
Views: 1476

Re: papoose unknown climb

Do you mean Mercury Vapour 10a or something right of that?
by Dru
Tue Jun 12, 2012 5:40 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Cypress Falls Bouldering Topo?
Replies: 19
Views: 4673

Re: Cypress Falls Bouldering Topo?

In the active quarry above the Godman Creek boulders, I climbed the blasted corner at the left of the main wall back in the early 90s (before they dumped all the blasted boulders in it). seem to recall it goes around 10-. The top anchor involves medium sized blue Tricams in drilled shot holes.
by Dru
Tue Jun 12, 2012 5:37 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Grand Finale open for business!
Replies: 9
Views: 3328

Re: Grand Finale open for business!

The first pitch or so has seen some previous attempts, yes? I seem to recall hearing that it got tried as long ago as the 80s - my old Campbell guide has it shown as 5.8 and I recall there was a rotted sling anchor left of the Dyke for a long, long time.
by Dru
Thu May 17, 2012 5:53 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Climbing Uncle Bens; Hammock Bivy Style
Replies: 8
Views: 1929

Re: Climbing Uncle Bens; Hammock Bivy Style

You should get yourself one of the Kong adjustable fifis. They help.
by Dru
Wed May 16, 2012 7:38 pm
Forum: Vancouver to Hope
Topic: Copper Cove mystery climbs
Replies: 5
Views: 11672

Re: Copper Cove mystery climbs

They are both 11- Barley routes. Arid Zawn and Drizzle Zawn respectively.
by Dru
Wed May 16, 2012 7:36 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: What is typical squamish climbing?
Replies: 7
Views: 1400

Re: What is typical squamish climbing?

Typical Squamish climbing is somewhat less than vertical non-splitter cracks and friction. You're gonna hate it.
by Dru
Sat May 12, 2012 7:36 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Crag/Trail Work Suggestions
Replies: 10
Views: 2836

Re: Crag/Trail Work Suggestions

It'd be nice for the trail down to Gotham City to get fixed up again through the canyon. Lots of neat climbs and a ton of untapped potential in there.
by Dru
Tue May 01, 2012 6:43 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Smoke Bluffs Guidebook Questions - Help!
Replies: 7
Views: 2513

Re: Smoke Bluffs Guidebook Questions - Help!

I don't know how to contact Mark or have any more info. Pretty sure I saw the route written up in a Climb-On new book circa 1998? ahem, edit: actually it's in Kevin McLane's 2005 guidebook. "It is possible to hand traverse from low on Out To Lunge (5.8?) M. Bosomworth, D. Horne April 98" As for "I'm...
by Dru
Mon Apr 30, 2012 7:36 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Smoke Bluffs Guidebook Questions - Help!
Replies: 7
Views: 2513

Re: Smoke Bluffs Guidebook Questions - Help!

I know he's changed his name, but I can't remember what he changed it to - anyways, the guy who used to be named Mark Bosomworth was involved in that Easter Island traverse.

And isn't the bolted route right of Sudden Impact a Payan/Thomson 10b?
by Dru
Sun Apr 29, 2012 6:07 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New - Quercus Wall - Murrin Park
Replies: 9
Views: 3198

Re: New - Quercus Wall - Murrin Park

OK, thanks Jeff.
Last time I was at Lost in Obscurity was around 10 yrs ago. At that time there were a bunch of projects on the go there with bolts and fixed ropes etc. but I never have seen them written up anywhere?
by Dru
Fri Apr 27, 2012 4:13 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New - Quercus Wall - Murrin Park
Replies: 9
Views: 3198

Re: New - Quercus Wall - Murrin Park

This sounds location wise like it is the old Lost in Obscurity crag. Is there a crack to a 5.9 slab "ending at the highest outcrop" (that you can see from the highway, after coming thru Dynamite Alley and rounding the bend heading north) at the south end of the cliff ?