Search found 396 matches

by Dru
Wed Sep 12, 2012 2:08 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Squamish's stiffest routes...
Replies: 39
Views: 24513

Re: Squamish's stiffest routes...

Correct me if I'm wrong but hasn't Glenn Payan's slab route Tools of Moss Destruction at Fern Gully gotten significantly harder from the original 11b as the tiny holds wore away from excessive toproping? Boogie Till You Puke was butch back when (pre-2005 guidebook) it was supposed to be 10c. But I k...
by Dru
Wed Sep 05, 2012 1:52 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Just Can't Do It needs some glue
Replies: 22
Views: 6912

Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue

MorganM wrote:
Amuerte wrote:This hold could easily be glued if that type of thing is acceptable around here.
I sure hope it's not acceptable around here.
There is a route across the highway at the Sport Temple called Just Glue It and another called Glueteous Maximus. Why do you suppose they are called that?
by Dru
Tue Sep 04, 2012 1:51 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Krimo Gold a new route in the Bulletheads
Replies: 12
Views: 5012

Re: Krimo Gold a new route in the Bulletheads

It's worth noting that the first few wide pitches of Liquid Gold were actually originally climbed as a route in their own right called Half Moon Chimney, previous to Liquid Gold being done. Details are in the old Campbell guide.
by Dru
Mon Sep 03, 2012 11:43 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Simul Climbing Fall Inhibitor
Replies: 15
Views: 5004

Re: Simul Climbing Fall Inhibitor

the ushba cutting the rope test i believe was done with a factor 2 dynamic drop on a static rope with weights. if you have a factor 2 on a second falling, you have exceptionally serious issues IMO. If you have a foot or two of slack in the system, such as when simuling at different speeds, and the ...
by Dru
Mon Sep 03, 2012 11:39 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Cypress new climbs.
Replies: 22
Views: 13891

Re: Cypress new climbs.

Those stainless steel permadraws might be a good idea, because once a maillon gets a certain degree of rusty it can be almost impossible to unscrew when you try and replace.
by Dru
Mon Sep 03, 2012 7:28 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Cypress new climbs.
Replies: 22
Views: 13891

Re: Cypress new climbs.

Might be worthwhile making sure those permadraws meet sea-cliff standards. The wet season gets pretty wet there even if the water is not salty.
by Dru
Mon Sep 03, 2012 7:24 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Simul Climbing Fall Inhibitor
Replies: 15
Views: 5004

Re: Simul Climbing Fall Inhibitor

gnarnaphobe wrote:Seems like a hassle. Just put the strongest climber on the dull end and don't fall.

+1. And don't get any slack in the rope if you do mess around with the Ushba or Tiblock on the rope because if you fall dynamically either one of those will sever the rope at around 5kn. :shock:
by Dru
Thu Aug 30, 2012 7:09 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Soloing Uncle Ben's with Merci Me to start
Replies: 26
Views: 7005

Re: Soloing Uncle Ben's with Merci Me to start

If you have a wife and buddy to help carry loads, get one of them to give you a belay. Free climb the first two pitches and fix. Takes about 15 minutes since there's very little pro fiddling to slow you down. A couple clips and you're done. Then you can haul, jug and solo-aid the aid parts at your l...
by Dru
Wed Aug 29, 2012 10:59 am
Forum: Climbing Photos and Videos
Topic: Pic of the day!
Replies: 203
Views: 59662

Re: Pic of the day!

nicke wrote:Jesse's photo looks like the last pitch of Powaqqatsi?
Oh ffs you're right and I didn't recognize it even though i was there when it was taken. Ow. :cry: :evil: :shock:
by Dru
Mon Aug 27, 2012 7:48 pm
Forum: Climbing Photos and Videos
Topic: Pic of the day!
Replies: 203
Views: 59662

Re: Pic of the day!

Jesse is that Empire of the Sun then? It is in the Select so not fully obscure, if so.
by Dru
Fri Aug 24, 2012 9:38 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Is Squamish Soft?
Replies: 83
Views: 15151

Re: Is Squamish Soft?

Banana Peel may have a mandatory 20m runout, actually if you do one variation it has a 50m runout, but it's hard to see with sticky rubber exactly how you would fall off either, so the runout distance is moot. In 22 years of climbing in Squamish I don't think I have ever heard of a big fall on Banan...
by Dru
Thu Aug 23, 2012 3:09 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Is Squamish Soft?
Replies: 83
Views: 15151

Re: Is Squamish Soft?

A bolt plus a hanger costs like $6. That's half a six pack of beer you could buy. Less bolts placed means more beer drunk. Pretty important point when you're a dirtbag new router. I mean when I was actively doing new climbs at Squamish I had a monthly budget of $30 at one point.
by Dru
Wed Aug 22, 2012 1:33 pm
Forum: Lost & Found
Topic: Found- knife in Paradise Valley boulders
Replies: 1
Views: 627

Re: Found- knife in Paradise Valley boulders

Was it a butter knife with a lot of scorching on the blade and traces of resin?
Not that I lost one like that, but more like that's what I'd expect from the Paradise Valley boulders.
by Dru
Wed Aug 22, 2012 8:28 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Routes on Anvil Island?
Replies: 3
Views: 1309

Re: Routes on Anvil Island?

Nothing recorded, but there's quite a bit of unrecorded seacliff climbing/DWS you can do from a landing on one of the beaches and/or a canoe you anchor to the base of the crag with cams in a crack. In the latter case if roped climbing instead of DWS watch out for changes in the tide. A friend was le...