Search found 73 matches

by hafilax
Fri Jul 25, 2008 2:14 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Who climbed The Grand Wall Thurs July 24th?
Replies: 11
Views: 2865

I'd like to see it too! :idea:
:)
by hafilax
Fri Jul 25, 2008 11:42 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: anyone catch dave macleod the other night?
Replies: 12
Views: 3229

Cobra crack is C2 and would never see bolts. I would guess that it's pretty well protected. Traditional climbing is ground up, not just placing clean pro. Most of the headpoints are face or arete climbing with the occasional seam that will take an RP or a micro-cam. The moves as well as the gear is ...
by hafilax
Tue Jul 22, 2008 1:58 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Crack-specific shoe sizing...?
Replies: 4
Views: 1681

I just got some Scarpa Technos which in my mind are an updated version of the Mythos. They have a system where the laces tension the heel so you can push your toes into the box or ease them out depending on how tight you tie them. I sized them with flat toes. The sole is pretty stiff with a pretty b...
by hafilax
Fri Jul 11, 2008 4:57 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: moss killing chemicals?
Replies: 16
Views: 5839

Inspired by dakine's post I did a quick search and this article turned up.
http://www.pesticide.org/RoofMoss.html
It sounds like zinc strips might be a viable solution but the environmental impact of having them on a lot of boulders in a small area might be an issue.
by hafilax
Wed Jul 09, 2008 12:13 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: tying in/ belaying on multi pitch?
Replies: 17
Views: 6263

I usually clove hitch in and belay off the anchor with an autoblock if we're swapping leads (unless there's a good chance I'll have to lower the second for any reason). For change overs, my partner usually carries an autoblocking device so when they get to the anchor they're secure. I take their bel...
by hafilax
Wed Jul 09, 2008 12:01 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Buying gear in Squamish / Vancouver?
Replies: 12
Views: 3608

Canada may be the cheapest place to buy climbing gear in the world IMO.
by hafilax
Thu Jun 05, 2008 7:56 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: motorcylce pants for climbing slab?
Replies: 12
Views: 3060

I like it. Friction routes seem to go more easily in the cold so the added leather would keep you warm at the same time. :lol:
by hafilax
Wed May 21, 2008 11:54 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: petzl announces new grigri belay technique
Replies: 2
Views: 1111

That's why they call it the 'technique developed by climbers'. It's mostly a newly approved by Petzl technique.
by hafilax
Mon May 05, 2008 10:31 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: FFA of Europa 5.8
Replies: 26
Views: 11384

I climbed Europa yesterday and it's a fun outing. It's a lot of pulling over blocks and wedged flakes. You have to be very mindful of pulling stuff off and placing gear since things do move. Otherwise the pitches are long and there are a bunch of gear anchors so gear management was the game of the d...
by hafilax
Mon Mar 31, 2008 4:42 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Pipeline - What Gear
Replies: 34
Views: 12745

Will a Valley Giant fit it. The standard Yosemite offwidth strategy seems to be to lead/toprope by shifting up a Valley Giant placing Big Bros and other big cams for pro below. Greg Cameron posted on supertopo about his onsight solo of Pipeline. I wish I could find it again. I remember something abo...
by hafilax
Thu Mar 27, 2008 5:59 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Smith Rock
Replies: 13
Views: 2981

We were in the Textbooks.
by hafilax
Tue Mar 25, 2008 2:42 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Smith Rock
Replies: 13
Views: 2981

The weather worked out pretty well although it was pretty cold at night. We explored around the East Gorge basalt columns on Sunday. It went from hot to cold instantly as the clouds and winds rolled through but I hardly noticed while climbing, only on belay.

Hope Bishop treated you well.
by hafilax
Thu Mar 20, 2008 10:22 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Smith Rock
Replies: 13
Views: 2981

See you down there. :D
by hafilax
Fri Mar 07, 2008 3:20 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: top problems
Replies: 2
Views: 1134

I don't have much to contribute since I've done very little bouldering. There was a similar discussion at gripped but it was about the 20 best problems.

http://gripped.com/forum/toast.asp?sub= ... &tid=19544
by hafilax
Fri Feb 29, 2008 2:47 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: 2008 Climbing To Do List
Replies: 14
Views: 3270

I have a guidebook from Oman. My mother was living there for a while but is now in the UAE. It sounds like a choss fest but if I lived there I would probably climb it. Back on topic. I haven't done many clip-ups in Squamish so maybe a couple of days at Pet wall or in Check are in order. Haven't been...