Search found 73 matches

by hafilax
Tue Aug 10, 2010 10:23 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Favorite Small Gear for Squamish Granite?
Replies: 12
Views: 2655

.3 (blue) C4 seems to be my go-to piece more often than not I'm not a fan of the .3 and .4 C4s. They have really wide heads relative to other cams of the same size. I've found quite a few placements where a TCU would fit but the .3 or .4 wouldn't. Otherwise I don't really have a preference for the ...
by hafilax
Tue Jul 20, 2010 7:54 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: What climb is this?
Replies: 8
Views: 1820

Brendan wrote:
hafilax wrote:I've never climbing it but I'm guessing Rock On. There's a similar photo in McLane's guidebook.
Wow. I haven't been on Rock On since '98(?). It looks like the second pitch!!
I don't get out much. :(
by hafilax
Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:52 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: What climb is this?
Replies: 8
Views: 1820

I've never climbing it but I'm guessing Rock On. There's a similar photo in McLane's guidebook.
by hafilax
Tue Jun 29, 2010 10:48 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Angel's Crest variations
Replies: 7
Views: 2218

I know that there is a bit of a precedent of bolting offwidths in multipitch climbs in Squamish but it is different when it is a variation vs. a required pitch. I think it should be left unbolted.
by hafilax
Mon Jun 07, 2010 10:39 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Grading: To Sandbag, or not to Sandbag?
Replies: 5
Views: 1803

The best that can be done is to have a relatively consistent system within an area. There's no way to compare routes in Squamish to even Yosemite. When you go to a new area you get on an easy route and build up to calibrate your ability to the area's grading system. There's no point in intentionally...
by hafilax
Tue May 18, 2010 1:36 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Community Forum changes - What would you like to see?
Replies: 38
Views: 47933

Is it possible to change the coding for the emoticons? 8)=8-bracket shows up whenever someone tries to post something like:
Mosquito (5.8)
Octopus Garden (5.8)
Dierdre (5.8)
Magical Child (5.8)
etc.
by hafilax
Sun May 16, 2010 11:58 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: The Milk Road - 9p, 5.10d A0 (5.11d)
Replies: 31
Views: 12615

Got on it yesterday with my two favourite rope guns. What a great route and an incredible compliment to the Grand. We found it harder than the Grand, physically and mentally. I was way in over my head with this being my first real day of climbing of the season. I can't thank my partners enough for b...
by hafilax
Fri Apr 16, 2010 7:33 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Cracks to learn on
Replies: 29
Views: 6695

Thanks for the suggestions everyone. Definitely for the first few days we will be top roping to dial in our crack technique (something we both really need to work on). smallman: you mention the quiet areas are areas those not in the guidebook, would we go to Climb-On to see the newest routes since ...
by hafilax
Sun Apr 11, 2010 7:43 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Cracks to learn on
Replies: 29
Views: 6695

Burgers and Fries, the climb and main area, aren't very beginner leader friendly. Almost every line has some kind of runout slab to deal with. That's partially why it's toprope central. Good spots on busy days are Collet a Day, Funarama and Alexis. The climbs to the sides of the popular areas are us...
by hafilax
Fri Apr 09, 2010 7:17 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Cracks to learn on
Replies: 29
Views: 6695

Klahanie can't really be 35m since I've set up top ropes on it easily. Maybe it's 35m to the tree? It might be the most painful climb in Squamish. I wouldn't really recommend the long routes to aspiring leaders unless they have huge racks or can deal with running it out a bit. Running out of gear is...
by hafilax
Mon Mar 29, 2010 8:07 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Community Forum changes - What would you like to see?
Replies: 38
Views: 47933

Which is better, having people talk behind your back without you hearing, or facing anonymous critics as little dots on the screen? IMO demanding that people prove their identities to participate here would stifle the addition of new users. The cons would outweigh the pros. I've had lots of people a...
by hafilax
Mon Mar 29, 2010 12:46 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Community Forum changes - What would you like to see?
Replies: 38
Views: 47933

And how do you guys propose enforcing this rule? Why do you care so much what somebody you don't know has to say?
by hafilax
Thu Jan 21, 2010 7:58 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: The Weather
Replies: 3
Views: 1016

Depends on your tolerance for climbing wet rock. :wink:
Some routes can dry in a couple of hours. Some seep for weeks after the last rain. If it's not raining I go climbing. There's always something that's dry enough somewhere.
by hafilax
Tue Oct 27, 2009 3:49 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Mosquito Area
Replies: 52
Views: 16621

IMO it won't stay clean without an anchor (or a mention in the next guide book with some stars). The upper part looks like a dirt trap that will leak into the lower part. People will go over to Mosquito and skip the upper part unless there is an anchor there. If the upper part fills in it won't take...
by hafilax
Wed Sep 23, 2009 7:55 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Wire Tap
Replies: 111
Views: 48956

Didn't they just install a new filtration system? The 'treat the water' signs are gone.