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I was also concerned regarding the placement of the bolt on pitch 3 but did not want to be a whiner. :D In addition to the previous comment regarding a fall from above the bolt, clipping this bolt on the left is difficult as it requires pulling the rope across your body (with a fair amount of rope d...

Hi Anders, Frankenstein Tradster was put up by Brian Pegg and others. A topo showing it's location relative to Slab Alley is at: http://www.squamishclimbing.com/topos/Frankenstein-Chief-0607.pdf. If the link does'nt work go to squamishclimbing.com click through to topos under the "The Chief Area" an...

A couple of years back, Andy Cairns and I did Frankenstein Tradster, linked to Slab Alley and then finished up the Buttress. This was an enjoyable combo with interesting and varied climbing. We did the 10d variation into the elephant steps and found it much easier than the "10a" second pitch of Fran...

I agree with Meingh. It could be very confusing to readers of a particular post if the content of earlier submissions could be changed by the author. If the author wants to correct content or change his/her opinion they can easily add a new reply along the lines of "what I meant to say was....". Cer...

I did the route with Andy ("itsonlyadream") and we found some of the pitches pretty stiff for the posted grades. Pitch 3, in particular, seemed much harder than pitch 6 (both listed at 10c). Andy redpointed it but I heard some distinct huffing and puffing. We guessed that you guys may be on the tall...

I dont know the context where the term "a cheval" was used but suspect that it refers to the use of your backpack as a sled to ride down a steep snow slope. You straddle the backpack and steer with your feet - that's the theory.

Tedium

What would be the point of climbing 1 number grade harder if you could'nt have a beer and spray?

If you havnt already done so you can download a useful topo for EUTS from http://www.squamishclimbing.com/free_topos.htm. After Sunshine Breakfast it should be possible to walk up the slabs north to EUTS. Note that, despite what the topo says, you dont go to the top of Sunblessed. Stay instead on th...