Search found 8 matches

by methuselah
Mon Jun 21, 2010 1:27 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Wire Tap
Replies: 111
Views: 66419

...except for grades on the last pitch which felt more like 5.8, especially the slab moves.
Chris
by methuselah
Mon Jun 21, 2010 1:19 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Wire Tap
Replies: 111
Views: 66419

Nice photo of pitches 3&4. I linked 1&2, then 3&4 on a 60-m rope with no issues at all. Makes for 2 really fine pitches as long as you extend runners in the right places to avoid rope drag and have enough gear. As mentioned in the topo, a 60-m rope with stretch is just barely long enough for the fin...
by methuselah
Sat Jul 04, 2009 9:58 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Nanaimo Crags
Replies: 2
Views: 1152

Dark Side - Nanaimo River.
It will be pleasantly cool and shady even in this hot weather.
Good sandstone, mostly bolted but some routes take a cam or two.

Heard that it may be 'closed' for some power washing next week.
by methuselah
Wed Sep 10, 2008 1:51 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Upper Echelon 5.10c 8p
Replies: 25
Views: 14522

Pitch 3 is certainly well protected and friendly, and requires finesse rather than strength. It's the kind of climb that gets much easier as the best holds and efficient moves are learned. That being said, my partners and I all found it very tricky to onsight (i.e., we all fell) which made us think ...
by methuselah
Sat Aug 25, 2007 1:35 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Upper Echelon 5.10c 8p
Replies: 25
Views: 14522

Hey Mike, Glad to hear you got on the route. You're probably the first one. Dave is planning to give pitch 6 a final brushing soon. We found it a little scruffy too when we finished the route as it hadn't been cleaned in a while (since 2005). Any comments on the grades? We did the route yesterday a...
by methuselah
Tue Apr 24, 2007 10:32 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: How long to dry after rain stops?
Replies: 3
Views: 1982

How long to dry after rain stops?

If it stops raining Saturday but remains cool and cloudy, would Ultimate Everything and/or Birds of Prey be dry enough to climb without special challenges on Monday? Anyone have recent experience?
by methuselah
Sun Sep 17, 2006 12:47 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Whirlwind, Baseline Direct and Evergreen State
Replies: 7
Views: 2957

Thanks Kevin! Having climbed many of the original Apron routes back in the early 80's, I am always intrigued by how routes have changed over the years. It would be nice to see a more detailed topo version of the Apron that captures this for posterity, maybe as two figures (old and new), or one that ...
by methuselah
Sun Sep 10, 2006 9:25 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Whirlwind, Baseline Direct and Evergreen State
Replies: 7
Views: 2957

Whirlwind, Baseline Direct and Evergreen State

On Friday, I climbed what I thought was Whirlwind, but now, after consulting various guidebooks, I am confused about the first pitch, and whether I actually climbed part of Evergreen State. I'm hoping that someone can explain the distinguishing features (or history of variations?) for Evergreen Stat...