SquamishClimbing.com

natsdad wrote: I noticed that climbs are getting scruffy

Steve

Part of the problem is that they face north, are shady, and seep through much of the winter and spring. That's just pretty much a recipe for scruffy no matter the traffic during the dry season.

I climbed it years ago following the drawn topo in the 1985 Jim Campbell Squamish guide. That worked well. The photo topo in the 1992 McLane guide shows it traversing off right at the top too low, on the wrong set of ramps.

If looking for a fun trad route without the crowds of Life on Earth, "The Nose" 5.9 stays right of LoE all the way to the summit, traversing diagonally right on ledges near the top. It's a pretty good route that deserves way more traffic than it gets.

The area from Jingus over to the edge of the Apron is prone to rockfall from the roofs around Never Never & Vulcan's Artery. Not a daily occurrence, but I was up there once in the rain lookin for dropped gear and a fridge sized boulder landed 100 feet away. It was pretty scary. Fortunately my pants ...

Thanks for cleaning these up Hevy. In the past (around 10-15 years ago) the routes to immediate left and right of PF were definitely climbable, even though mossy, but they just got dirtier since then. I think I did the one on the left twice back then. I'm sure they will be more popular now they are ...

Some of these routes show up as being done on the old topo in the '85 Campbell guide but were not named at the time.

Saw this on MP

Looks badass! Daily Planet to the top via the Sherrif's Badge roofs?

http://mountainproject.com/v/the-daily- ... /110965256

Moorhead the Elder is the one who told me it was Robin. If it wasn't, take it up with him.

So I had a phone discussion about this info and was asked to post the following info here: The crag was originally developed by Robin Barley, who placed all the bolts, and used chainlink and washer anchors on top. The Smoke Bluffs climbing management committee (correct me if I got the name wrong) ha...

Just a heads up - a friend was climbing at the Smoke Bluffs over the weekend and said that hangers on several routes at the lower Tunnel Rock crag - the one downhill and right of the tunnel - had been pounded flat against the rock by repeated hammering and could not be clipped