Search found 8 matches

by WhippersAndTears
Mon Nov 02, 2015 2:50 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: VIDEO: Cerberus 5.11d Squamish - Second Takes Pendulum Fall
Replies: 0
Views: 5992

VIDEO: Cerberus 5.11d Squamish - Second Takes Pendulum Fall

Cerberus is a 5.11d Squamish mostly-bolted 'sport' route on an amazingly clean wall with incredible small dyke feature. Getting into the main business via the 5.10d Catharsis Crack provides the head crux with 50 meters of tenuous undercling smearing. Great FUN for both leader AND second! https://www...
by WhippersAndTears
Mon Sep 07, 2015 9:30 am
Forum: Find A Partner
Topic: Climbing Partner Wanted for Moderate/Hard Multipitch
Replies: 0
Views: 1902

Climbing Partner Wanted for Moderate/Hard Multipitch

I'm looking for a partner for multipitch routes like Grand Wall, Cerberus, Freeway, Milk Road, High Plains Drifter, etc. If you're a fast second and good belayer I'm willing to lead everything. Also potentially looking for a partner for yosemite this fall! Hit me up on Facebook: https://www.facebook...
by WhippersAndTears
Mon Jul 20, 2015 2:30 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: "USHBA" failure - ground fall
Replies: 19
Views: 45047

Re: "USHBA" failure - ground fall

I heard from someone in Skaha that you 'broke both your legs.' I am glad to hear that was not true! I've used a Ushba for five years - first the old Russian model, then the new Brasovia. I've fallen on them hundreds of times. The old Russian model began dropping me a little farther each time, but ne...
by WhippersAndTears
Mon Jul 13, 2015 3:01 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Man vs. Grizzly Bear in Rogers Pass
Replies: 0
Views: 2049

Man vs. Grizzly Bear in Rogers Pass

Grizzly Bear Encounter: Rogers Pass, British Columbia (July 9th, 2015) by Jesse James http://WhippersAndTears.com Having just climbed the Southeast Ridge of Mt Uto, my partner and I were descending lazily in the extreme heat of the afternoon when an off-duty ‘visitor safety’ specialist named Lydia b...
by WhippersAndTears
Tue Jun 23, 2015 3:52 pm
Forum: Find A Partner
Topic: Tantalus this weekend?
Replies: 0
Views: 1511

Tantalus this weekend?

Hot in the valley this weekend .. if anyone wants to go with me to Tantalus Range and climb Dalwinnie (5.11b sport) and Paul Cordy's new route on west face of dione (5.10d trad) please Facebook me: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100008360059088 If these grades are above you I will lead all ...
by WhippersAndTears
Sun Jun 21, 2015 6:36 pm
Forum: Alpine
Topic: Wonderful Thing About Tiggers, June 16 2015
Replies: 2
Views: 8082

Wonderful Thing About Tiggers, June 16 2015

Just climbed The Wonderful Thing About Tiggers (5.11a) on the north wall of Habrich (aka, Fluffy Kitten Wall .. who comes up with these names??). What an AMAZING rock climb!! One of the best in Squamish. This is full-on, relentless crack climbing. Every pitch is good, and the rock is BOMBER. All but...
by WhippersAndTears
Wed May 20, 2015 5:07 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: The Classic
Replies: 0
Views: 1641

The Classic

The Classic – by Jesse James (dedicated to the Columbia Buttress in Revelstoke. Sorry Ruedi ...) The guidebook marked it ‘classic’ The FA called it ‘boss’ Above me on the starting pitch – One hundred feet of choss. My parter froze with mouth agape The looseness gave him pause Handing him the rack I ...
by WhippersAndTears
Thu Apr 23, 2015 6:05 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: A Guide to Sandbagging Newbies and Sportclimbers
Replies: 23
Views: 80428

A Guide to Sandbagging Newbies and Sportclimbers

A Guide to Sandbagging Newbies and Sport Climbers on Squamish's Grand Wall (5.11a) http://whippersandtears.com/?p=34 by JESSE JAMES …. One of the most legendary multipitch excursions in all of Canada, the Grand Wall cuts a brilliant line up the cleanest sweep of granite in Squamish, an imposing face...