Search found 326 matches

by J Mace
Mon Aug 17, 2015 12:35 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Bolts Smashed - Tunnel Rock
Replies: 9
Views: 5760

Re: Bolts Smashed - Tunnel Rock

I also climbed the routes with Robin in April and he was stoked, and then we crossed paths at the radio tower climbs, which blew his mind. Which by the way are awesome climbs, that is if someone hasnt vandalized them, I think he mentioned he was surprised to see the bench still there. Now if there w...
by J Mace
Mon Aug 17, 2015 12:33 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Unfinished Symphony
Replies: 1
Views: 1102

Re: Unfinished Symphony

Its a one move wonder right off the belay, its probably harder to do the move without pulling on the bolt as its right in your face. I found it easier than the crux pitch of dancing in the light. There is still some mid 5.10 climbing after the crux bulge. I have only approached via edge hog and you ...
by J Mace
Sun Aug 09, 2015 5:53 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Lowering off chains
Replies: 28
Views: 11913

Re: Lowering off chains

Its just a general rule of thumb BB, something experienced well travelled climbers do, just like knowing how to get off a climb when you or your partner drop the rap device...basic stuff. Good question OP.
by J Mace
Wed Jul 22, 2015 12:37 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Lowering off chains
Replies: 28
Views: 11913

Re: Lowering off chains

General rule of thumb is to always rap, regardless of how easy it is to replace hardware, someone has to do it and someone has to pay for it.
by J Mace
Mon Jul 13, 2015 9:37 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Best to be more discreet
Replies: 9
Views: 4266

Re: Best to be more discreet

IF you dont care then you dont care, otherwise tell them to get off the tracks in person. Your pics dont really do anyone any good at all.
by J Mace
Wed Apr 29, 2015 2:02 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: A Guide to Sandbagging Newbies and Sportclimbers
Replies: 21
Views: 9952

Re: A Guide to Sandbagging Newbies and Sportclimbers

Its a mental sickness, probably had his meds went away and has relapsed. Sad really. This is likely uncle trickys original diedre partner...Elmer. 6:00 AM Myself and a first (and last) time climbing partner I'll call "Elmer" met up at the parking lot in Squamish to climb Diedre, a classic 5.7 on the...
by J Mace
Tue Apr 28, 2015 11:44 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: A Guide to Sandbagging Newbies and Sportclimbers
Replies: 21
Views: 9952

Re: A Guide to Sandbagging Newbies and Sportclimbers

The reality is our medical system is just too taxed to give folks like this the help they need. He is not a guide, has never been a guide and everyone of his posts are about almost killing his partner or claiming he is a guide. Someones gonna get hurt Introduction Hi, I'm Jesse James. I'm a professi...
by J Mace
Sat Apr 25, 2015 1:51 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: A Guide to Sandbagging Newbies and Sportclimbers
Replies: 21
Views: 9952

Re: A Guide to Sandbagging Newbies and Sportclimbers

I think at some point it becomes obvious that there is a severe mental problem and dave should just delete his posts for his own good, and my mine actually. I think it sucks ball smegma that every time someone calls me by name at the crag I have to spend 20 F%$#$&^ minutes explaining who I am not. Dave, clearly he has some issues...isnt this the same guy that pissed all over a party coming up milk run...im guessing you banned his last avatar...chop chop
by J Mace
Sat Aug 30, 2014 10:41 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Apron Descent Hand Line Needs Replacement
Replies: 9
Views: 10389

Re: Apron Descent Hand Line Needs Replacement

That rap route only requires one 60, it allows you to leave your shoes at the base when climbing rock on calculus etc
by J Mace
Tue Aug 19, 2014 4:57 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: new area at Murrin past Quercus
Replies: 27
Views: 13427

Re: new area at Murrin past Quercus

Sorry I hurt your feelings. Thanks for the hard work.
by J Mace
Thu Aug 14, 2014 7:55 am
Forum: Alpine
Topic: Slesse - Glacier Conditions
Replies: 15
Views: 7202

Re: Slesse - Glacier Conditions

Like this Eric [img]putphotourl(.jpg)here[/img] Little marc climbed it on the 12th and said it was still a very dangerous place to be. I am just amazed that people go for this line in early August. There is no where to run if any little piece decides to come get you. Go in September, or avoid that c...
by J Mace
Tue Aug 12, 2014 6:36 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: new area at Murrin past Quercus
Replies: 27
Views: 13427

Re: new area at Murrin past Quercus

I love trad, and I hate sport. But man do I hate sport routes even more that require me to lug half a rack up there to figure out what the one placement is....Down at the cedars has plenty of that if thats what your looking for. Thankfully both of these walls are hardly worth fighting over. However,...
by J Mace
Fri Aug 08, 2014 12:07 pm
Forum: Vancouver to Hope
Topic: Capilano Classic
Replies: 4
Views: 9412

Re: Capilano Classic

This got cleaned up last year and new bolts and such. You now rap in from a big tree at the top of the climb. Its a 60m rap, so just use one rope tied off at the tree and another to climb out, I like using my 70 for this. You rap to the all bolted 10c pitch start. Pitch 2 as described above. This cl...
by J Mace
Wed Aug 06, 2014 3:11 pm
Forum: Alpine
Topic: Slesse - Glacier Conditions
Replies: 15
Views: 7202

Re: Slesse - Glacier Conditions

North Rib glacier looks great, which after having done both the NEB and and North Rib I would have to say the latter is considerably better. Generally, once the pocket glacier is gone, the North Rib glacier is too broken up to cross.
by J Mace
Tue Aug 05, 2014 5:36 pm
Forum: Find A Partner
Topic: Aug 9-10
Replies: 1
Views: 829

Re: Aug 9-10

FYI My understanding is that this weekend is not the time to come to Squamish. I have heard some pretty spectacular horror stories regarding traffic and camping opportunities. Approximately 35 000 people are expected each day, which is double last year... http://www.cknw.com/2014/08/04/squamish-musi...