Search found 15 matches
- Fri Jul 08, 2016 9:10 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Climb and Punishment
- Replies: 7
- Views: 13989
Re: Climb and Punishment
not easier, less of a hold at crux move. good green alien right at top of missing hold.
- Fri Jun 10, 2016 8:24 am
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: recently new route on south part of apron
- Replies: 3
- Views: 8983
Re: recently new route on south part of apron
We did it from the base after the cleaning and those first 3 pitches are great, much better then approaching from the Diedre area. The only other pitch that was memerable was the Elephant steps.
- Fri Jun 10, 2016 8:19 am
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Jingus the Cat - Rescrubbed and Dug-Out
- Replies: 5
- Views: 21864
Re: Jingus the Cat - Rescrubbed and Dug-Out
Thank you Mark. It is a good line. The rope was laying in the dirt- looked better then some ropes I climb with. I set it on a rock. I was wondering if the anchor was set up for the 5.12, seems convoluted to traverse over left, why not go up corner a bit further?
- Sun May 15, 2016 11:11 am
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Eric Weinstein
- Replies: 1
- Views: 6862
Eric Weinstein
maybe already here somewhere but in case you have some rainy day reading time:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/threa ... 6711&tn=80
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/threa ... 6711&tn=80
- Tue Aug 04, 2015 7:56 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Ghostdancing
- Replies: 10
- Views: 32678
Ghostdancing
Has anyone climbed Ghostdancing? It looks good but little travelled.
- Tue Aug 04, 2015 2:17 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Bolts Smashed - Tunnel Rock
- Replies: 9
- Views: 30432
Re: Bolts Smashed - Tunnel Rock
another source of info:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4795
I have not been there for 2 years, weird times, we will see how this evolves, or devolves.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4795
I have not been there for 2 years, weird times, we will see how this evolves, or devolves.
- Tue Jul 29, 2014 10:37 am
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Best way to rap the North Walls with two 60m?
- Replies: 1
- Views: 7491
Re: Best way to rap the North Walls with two 60m?
yes, double rope raps for upper pitches of Parallel Passages to Astro ledge. 2 60m ok. single rope raps work for 4 lower pitches. Hideous rope pull in steep woods below that. I wondered if a double rope rap off bottom of 1st pitch would work instead of fixed ropes. Anyone know?
- Tue Jul 29, 2014 10:23 am
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Hanging Gardens at the Papoose
- Replies: 25
- Views: 68682
Re: Hanging Gardens at the Papoose
We climbed this last weekend. Nice new/old route. Missing nut on bolt at top of 2nd pitch. Hanger hanging on end of chain. We backed up the 1st rap with cam, then I rapped off the one bolt. 1st pitch, wet on fingertip traverse, pass bolt move maybe 10b/c. agree that slinging tree is good after cam o...
- Wed Jun 25, 2014 10:02 am
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Liquid Gold
- Replies: 10
- Views: 12733
Re: Liquid Gold
Does anyone know when this got a FFA and by who? And who cleaned it, and when? I know about Krimo Gold and it's 1st pitch anchor appeared in 2011 or 2012. My understanding is that the original LG start was right of the current start going up left trending finger crack with anchor in the moss above i...
- Thu Jun 19, 2014 12:55 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: South Apron reopen July 5th
- Replies: 8
- Views: 10325
Re: South Apron reopen July 5th
I am no expert, but have climbed OTR regularly for 12 years and have always noticed that area being loose and wet underneath the very spot blown out. In another picture there is a block perched on the back of the small tree, which makes me think that something came down from above, maybe the tree le...
- Thu Jun 19, 2014 11:59 am
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Chebacca's 5.10b 3p at Shannon Falls
- Replies: 19
- Views: 39673
Re: Chebacca's 5.10b 3p at Shannon Falls
Hard to believe this was not done before, has a classic feel and easy to get to. Nice job. I too was contemplating the move from arete foot hold to bolt. I also noticed the slot below my foot and placed green alien, added long sling to cam on the far right, switched to right foot, stepped up into co...
- Mon Jun 02, 2014 6:09 pm
- Forum: Alpine
- Topic: Escape Velocity, 5.9, Mt. Habrich
- Replies: 17
- Views: 66443
Re: Escape Velocity, 5.9, Mt. Habrich
We were up 0n the Bulletheads and contemplating the gondola ride. Checked the cost- $36 RT, and $10 for downhill only. Trails developed too. Have you tried this yet? Could one hike from the Chief, and then get on those Habrich trails? I would like to explore Habrich, but that closed road, and Gondol...
- Fri May 30, 2014 7:19 am
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Slab Alley Restoration Project
- Replies: 85
- Views: 91715
Re: Slab Alley Restoration Project
Hi Anders, just a note of appreciation for all your hard work. I do some of this work myself here in Wa. around Index, Leavenworth and North Bend, and know how hard it is. I don't think many climbers know what goes into this cleaning in the NW anyway. The moss, ferns, salal, brambles, sod, trees, ro...
- Thu May 29, 2014 9:04 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: New Crag at Tunnel Rock - Smoke Bluffs
- Replies: 7
- Views: 13415
Re: New Crag at Tunnel Rock - Smoke Bluffs
Any news on routes without anchors?
- Mon Mar 03, 2014 8:39 am
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Simpson - Strong Tie Bolts - Warning
- Replies: 12
- Views: 25543
Re: Simpson - Strong Tie Bolts - Warning
Always glad to see these discussions about anchors. I have only been making new routes for a couple of years, but have been replacing rap anchors for like 10 years, as well as doing construction for 30 years. The rating specs tend to be confusing. In the construction industry they have the "safe wor...