Search found 12 matches

by Don Serl
Thu Sep 24, 2009 11:38 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Shoe reccomendations for climbing hard slab in squamish
Replies: 14
Views: 6865

Re: Shoe reccomendations for climbing hard slab in squamish

Just curious what people around here are sporting on their feet when they climb hard slab? i'm gonna definitely show my generation (gap?) here, but the best shoes i've experienced for slab have been quite beefy, board-lasted shoes. finest of all were a pair of Asolo Canyons resoled with 5.10 rubber...
by Don Serl
Tue Sep 08, 2009 11:13 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: dancing in the light - trad/sport????
Replies: 5
Views: 3217

Re: dancing in the light - trad/sport????

maybe a dumb question... is this climb bolted??? the info from the others is correct, but two comments: 1. i always used to protect the initial groove by first climbing up the corner to the left and plugging in a mid-sized friend with a generous sling, then coming back down and doing the groove. i ...
by Don Serl
Mon Sep 11, 2006 7:09 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Dancing i.t. Light cleaning-- Sunday the 10th.
Replies: 15
Views: 10185

Clarification on DitL

Hi. Clarification (cuz I wuz doing the bolting while Chris was brushing down below): On P3"A", both bolts were left in place at the scoop 3/4 of the way up the pitch, altho the chains were removed. This makes "new" P3 close to 50m, whereas the original version had a plus/minus 35m pitch and a short ...
by Don Serl
Mon Jul 10, 2006 8:17 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Rapping the Papoose?
Replies: 13
Views: 15208

i walked across below, then up to the top, a few days ago to reacquaint myself with the whole Papoose 'scene'. still seems to me there ought to be some improvements and/or additions to the rap situation, but the new trail is certainly lovely and fast: 8 mins from top to botttom, 5 mins back to base,...
by Don Serl
Thu Jul 06, 2006 6:58 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Rapping the Papoose?
Replies: 13
Views: 15208

I've always liked the climbing on the Papoose a bunch. Pin-up, Centrefold, Papoose One, and Hair Pin all ought to have lotsa traffic on them every weekend - they are all varied, entertaining, and challenging but not outright hard. but even with the new trail getting down has always seemed a touch of...
by Don Serl
Thu Jun 01, 2006 6:45 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Paging Don Serl
Replies: 4
Views: 4589

update: the other evening i rapped Dancing in the Light to re-familiarize myself with the route, in prep for cleaning and re-bolting with Chris. number 1, the 'debate' about whether to set it up for rappels or not is moot point - it's already that way. somewhere along the way the cordage has been re...
by Don Serl
Wed May 31, 2006 6:55 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Pixie's Corner Question...
Replies: 22
Views: 17595

I was working in Squamish yesterday, and went up after I was finished and replaced the ONE bolt at the top of Trixie. the tree is plenty big and the root systems are in fine shape and I would judge will remain so - no need to turn this into a two-bolt anchor - it's not like it's the most popular rou...
by Don Serl
Fri May 26, 2006 12:45 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Pixie's Corner Question...
Replies: 22
Views: 17595

yup...
DS
by Don Serl
Thu May 25, 2006 8:20 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Paging Don Serl
Replies: 4
Views: 4589

yah, Chris Stolz contacted Dave Jones and me recently to get our opinions on replacing the older bolts on Dancing, and also proposed putting in a couple 'redirect' bolts just above a couple of the belays to keep the long possible falls from coming directly onto the belay. Dave and I both agree that ...
by Don Serl
Tue May 23, 2006 8:43 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Pixie's Corner Question...
Replies: 22
Views: 17595

The tree won't be in the way if we get a couple of bolts up there. Now, who can set this up? I'd offer to, but don't have an appropriate drill, or any experience putting anchors in rock. i'll do it when i'm next up there with a bit of spare time. i only have a hand drill, but it does the job OK. ch...
by Don Serl
Mon May 22, 2006 12:15 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Pixie's Corner Question...
Replies: 22
Views: 17595

Hi Don, I was up there and did the climb on Friday, using the tree for an anchor. The tree feels solid but I did notice a considerable ammount of erosion around the base, and alot less 'green' than it has been in the past. I took a better look, and it looks to me that there only ever has been one b...
by Don Serl
Mon May 22, 2006 9:29 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Pixie's Corner Question...
Replies: 22
Views: 17595

ethicly speaking, you have to have premission from the FAer to put in that bolt (and its NOT a safety issue cus there's still a good bolt and bomber tree) go to elaho.com and send an email to Kevin Mclane (stone@elaho.com i think) and tell him the situation and ask if he has the contact info for Do...