Search found 54 matches

by gearheart
Tue Jul 03, 2012 8:08 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: SAS Re-bolting Phase 3 completed
Replies: 5
Views: 1623

SAS Re-bolting Phase 3 completed

The Squamish Access Society has completed Phase 3 of our re-bolting initiative. Thanks to everyone who made suggestions for the work to be done in this phase. Phase 3 included work at the Smoke Bluffs including bolt and/or anchor replacement on Supervalue 10c, Geritol 10c and House Music 10c, Digita...
by gearheart
Sat Jun 16, 2012 9:27 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Some scary moments on Calculus Crack with a happy ending
Replies: 24
Views: 6631

Re: Some scary moments on Calculus Crack with a happy ending

Read further down his blog - plenty of 12's at the Creek get sent. I bet he's OK soloing 5.8.
by gearheart
Wed May 25, 2011 7:37 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Book Suggestions
Replies: 11
Views: 3190

Re: Book Suggestions

More classics (along the White Spider line) would include Starlight and Storms by Gaston Rebuffat and the Mountains of my Life by Walter Bonnatti. Beckey's Challenge of the North Cascades is perhaps a local version of these French and Italian classics. And who doesn't like reading really good guideb...
by gearheart
Mon May 16, 2011 5:21 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Book Suggestions
Replies: 11
Views: 3190

Re: Book Suggestions

No Picnic on Mount Kenya by Felice Benuzzi - true story of Italian POW's escaping from a British POW camp to go climbing. Todd
by gearheart
Mon Apr 04, 2011 9:37 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Yosemite Pinnacle - Left Side
Replies: 19
Views: 4762

Re: Yosemite Pinnacle - Left Side

I climbed this in July 1996 as part of an unsuccessful TWall attempt. I graded the left side as 5.8 A1 at the time, but don't remember what, why or where the aid was. I do remember the route being dark, dirty and kinda runout and really loving slinging those hallelulah chockstones. We rapped back do...
by gearheart
Tue Jan 25, 2011 10:12 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Funarama not so fun anymore
Replies: 38
Views: 17560

Some interesting discussion and some very good points made by many who have posted. I do wish that Rolf had undertaken some more fact checking before posting his initial comments. The SAS did not remove any of the home-made glue in anchors or modified (shortened) Fixe bolts. The SAS was advised in s...
by gearheart
Fri Oct 08, 2010 8:33 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: How would you rate the work of the SAS?
Replies: 9
Views: 3928

by gearheart
Fri Oct 08, 2010 8:28 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: How would you rate the work of the SAS?
Replies: 9
Views: 3928

If you are wondering at the source of Anders somewhat technical list in his first post, its probably worth knowing that Anders is a lawyer with a professional specialization in non-profits, BC socities and charities: http://www.donaldgolobconsulting.ca/itoolkit.asp?pg=Seminars. I also expect that th...
by gearheart
Sun Sep 26, 2010 7:03 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Squamish Access Society AGM
Replies: 2
Views: 1225

Squamish Access Society AGM

The Squamish Access Society annual general meeting is happening on Sunday Oct. 3 at 6pm at the Garibaldi room at the Brew Pub. There's been a lot happening this year on the access front and obviously lots to discuss and feedback is needed. There will be slideshows by Jeremy Smith and Colin Moorhead ...
by gearheart
Sat Sep 25, 2010 9:11 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Upper Malamute now a Park!
Replies: 9
Views: 2701

The land parcel that is now going to be part of the park includes the whole of the upper malamute climbing area and starts at the highway but only extends as far as the railway right of way. So this great news for the upper malamute does not change the access situation at the lower malamute. Todd Sq...
by gearheart
Wed Aug 25, 2010 11:44 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Public Safety Issue - Europa/Crap Crags
Replies: 17
Views: 5596

I climbed Europa last summer one day after work with one of my long-time alpine partners and in that context I enjoyed the route. The route was certainly loose in places and had holds I chose not to use after either a visual inspection or tap test (not completely unlike climbing the Upper Black Dyke...
by gearheart
Sat Jul 24, 2010 7:58 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New crag near Shannon Falls (AMO wall)
Replies: 23
Views: 10936

The Relish Route was recently my daughters first mulit-pitch and the route was perfect for that purpose - grade, style of climbing, belay positions and the walk-off all make it ideal for a first kids multi-pitch.
Todd
by gearheart
Wed Jul 07, 2010 7:42 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Wire Tap
Replies: 111
Views: 63524

I climbed wiretap last week and thought that the bolts on the 3rd pitch were unnecessary as there is good gear available throughout. I thought the FA's requested feedback, and if so, my personal view is that all of the protection bolts on that pitch should be removed, and if not all, then at least m...
by gearheart
Wed Jun 16, 2010 11:47 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Cable crossing to Tantalus still ok?
Replies: 16
Views: 4640

Here is a report from the trip in there we made with approach times, etc so you can judge accordingly. As you can see, we would have flown to the (then) red tit hut, but couldn't so changed the plan and canoed & marched and it wasn't that bad. The alpha/serratus col (aka the Inca bivy) is a truly aw...
by gearheart
Tue Jun 15, 2010 5:22 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Cable crossing to Tantalus still ok?
Replies: 16
Views: 4640

I'd highly recommend a canoe crossing rather than the cable if you can manage it. Todd