SquamishClimbing.com

Nathan on Cerberus


Tim on Daily Planet

A fully bolted arête lurks above Bullethead East pitch one and the Gift. A short section of 3rd class leads to the start of the gift on a stump. Here the pillar on the right gains access to a high but easily reached first bolt. The rest of the climbing is quite enjoyable and dries extremely fast. Th...

Boreal ballet size 9. In 8 out of 10 shape. Selling for $60 OBO.

I think that if the old nostalgic bolt gets replaced with a new proper bolt on JTLS, it will definitely have line ups at it every weekend and be in the next top 100 five star routes. Although without the bolt its probably candidate for the Squamish's stiffest routes thread.

My opinion is that the old bolt should be removed and the grade should be 10d. The bolt is an annoyance and although the moves at the top might not quite be 10d face moves; they feel 5.11 after coming out of the thin end of the crack. Again, no one has to agree with me. Just spraying my opinion. AMA...

I Forgot my alpine draw on a bolt on one of the plaques on memorial ledge yesterday. It had a dmm revolver biner on it and a red mammut dyneema sling. If someone might have come across it, I can reward with beer.

When I climbed this a few months ago I'd say that the 10d pitch on Moving to Montana felt harder than the 10d pitch on milk road in my opinion. The lower moves off the bolt were real stout too.

After the last pitch on borderline, you can traverse over to Angels Crest and finish as for the 5.6 pitch. There is a rap off of a tree with tat into the north gully. This will take you down three more raps before you get down. All you need is a 60m but be carefull of loose rock. The better option i...

I'm curious to know if anyone has ever had any failures with an original ushba. I've had one for many years and I am going to always back it up now after hearing this. I recently bought a Sterling Hollowblock from MEC to use as a backup prusik. It slides above my ushba easily and seems to lock off q...

The second to last bolt on Dreams of Passion at Ronins Corner needs replacing.

Nice pictures guys. I haven't had a chance to try the new extention to the butt face yet but it looks like fun. What route is the climber on in your photo Dakine? I guess I'm due for a few shots. Andrew on Squeamishness p2 https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5482/14454254688_92781ffa96_o.jpg Andrew on Sq...

I was there last week and we hit the four on the left not including Boyd's route and agree with the grades. I thought the bolting was a little ridiculous in spots though (closely spaced) even for those that are faint of heart.

I believe there is a bolted anchor after the 10a first pitch but you're better off going up to the next ledge to give the next pitch no rope drag. You do need to build a gear anchor but its in a nice spot. The next pitch is a tree belay and the last two pitches (not counting the end 5.4 walk off pit...

Nice. Brownie and I saw the two of you last weekend on the façade while we went up sunset strip, which was super fun. Brette killed that awesome looking 10d pitch but I missed you on the 12 as I climbed off. Here's a few shots I got from the belay beside you. Brette on the Façade https://farm6.stati...

Offwidth? Does this mean I should bring my #5? I was thinking about checking this out tomorrow. Has anyone climbed it yet?