Search found 13 matches

by SGB
Wed Sep 05, 2018 9:44 pm
Forum: Alpine
Topic: Escape Velocity, 5.9, Mt. Habrich
Replies: 16
Views: 13289

Re: Escape Velocity, 5.9, Mt. Habrich

A fine day to get out and hike/climb The approach is super fast as the trail is well used/marked. A little bit of erosion here and there. It took us 1.5 hours from the top of the gondola (no running but just steady) A couple pieces of webbing are on the first 2 bolts of first pitch (easy to see). Ag...
by SGB
Fri Aug 31, 2018 9:20 pm
Forum: Alpine
Topic: Sky Pilot - Ascent time from Gondola and Conditions
Replies: 12
Views: 5235

Re: Sky Pilot - Ascent time from Gondola and Conditions

Doubt anyone really reads this forum anymore, but just in case... Did this route recently starting from base of the gondola (not taking the lift up). We took 2.5 litres water each, low rise hiking shoes, spikes, axe, and decided to take our harness and a 30 m rope to check out these rap stations at ...
by SGB
Fri Sep 30, 2016 7:57 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: new climb on shannon falls crag above cardhu/kalanie cracks
Replies: 4
Views: 4861

Re: new climb on shannon falls crag above cardhu/kalanie cra

Hopped onto this route today with Angus Great half day choice and thanks to developers for uncovering this gem We thought grades were bang on The 11a was wet unfortunately midway(right of crack)and we had to aid for 15 ft but enjoyed the upper crack and slab. Everything else was dry. We figured this...
by SGB
Mon Aug 31, 2015 8:57 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New take on an old route at Shannon Falls
Replies: 41
Views: 25002

Re: New take on an old route at Shannon Falls

People will climb this route for the 5.10 crack climbing not the slab finish No question this pitch adds to the many quality routes that exist at Shannon falls Gotta agree with Rolf on this one. He has been around a long time and seen the consequences of adding a bolt later or watching routes slowly...
by SGB
Fri Jun 12, 2015 9:18 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: "USHBA" failure - ground fall
Replies: 19
Views: 11013

Re: "USHBA" failure - ground fall

I have used the rock exotica soloist for several years without a problem No sharp teeth on it either Don't see a whole lot of people using it these days Just don't use it on overhanging routes Backup knots as you ascend if single strand or clipping into knots if 2 strands mandatory for redundancy fo...
by SGB
Thu Aug 15, 2013 9:04 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Wasps...
Replies: 3
Views: 3376

Re: Wasps...

With all these wasp sightings, methinks it deserves a separate thread title or category for the climbing season.......Climbed this route recently as well (Monday) and saw a few of these buggers at the sites Jer mentioned, but it was too early in the AM for any excitement
by SGB
Fri Jul 12, 2013 7:02 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: possible wasp nest Apron Strings..
Replies: 0
Views: 830

possible wasp nest Apron Strings..

up there yesterday, and after the first pitch at the belay, I noticed several yellowjackets going in and out of the base of the tree
by SGB
Wed Oct 03, 2012 9:39 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Sun Beam Wall - Empire in the Sun
Replies: 9
Views: 4723

Re: Sun Beam Wall - Empire in the Sun

Did this with largelead today in AM. Good outing and 3 stars as in the Select guide is appropriate. Route is dry. We didnt bother link pitches, although you could (esp 2 and 3) as they are short Took about 2h30 min to climb plus an hour for the hike up/down. Our thoughts in terms of grade and rack: ...
by SGB
Wed Sep 12, 2012 5:31 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: anyone fallen off diedre?
Replies: 9
Views: 3140

Re: anyone fallen off diedre?

I remember looking at this the first time it was posted
And even with knowing the poetic license and hyperbole
It is just as funny the second time
A definite must read...
by SGB
Mon Sep 03, 2012 7:01 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Mushy Peas Left of Opal
Replies: 5
Views: 6371

Mushy Peas Left of Opal

Got on this route today and friends were on it the day before The first two pitches are a bit dirty but the route is essentially dry. The book gives it 2 stars but we all feel it is at least 3 stars with the quality of the pitches above It has amazing hand jamming with some overhanging cracks. Some ...
by SGB
Sun Aug 26, 2012 7:37 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: The Common Wealth - New Trad Crag Murrin Park
Replies: 16
Views: 6669

Re: The Common Wealth - New Trad Crag Murrin Park

Agree fully with everything said above. Took 2 of my kids today to this cliff and they have been to most of the beginner "crack" areas (sugarloaf, pixie's, funarama, octopus, burgers and fries) - this area was probably their favourite - rest stances - most routes are straight up - short hike in - br...
by SGB
Tue Aug 21, 2012 8:34 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Is Squamish Soft?
Replies: 83
Views: 14152

Re: Is Squamish Soft?

Watch out for those older 10b climbs
Usually bang on for grade (with a touch of sandbag)
Split
Caboose
Apron Strings
Pitch in time
by SGB
Mon Aug 06, 2012 5:04 pm
Forum: Lost & Found
Topic: LOST Anasazi Velcros Fern Hill
Replies: 0
Views: 490

LOST Anasazi Velcros Fern Hill

Size 44 newish shoes near Burp the Worm
If anyone picked them up, could you PM me or drop off at Climb on
Cheers
Simon