SquamishClimbing.com

Amen to that. I love my adjustable daisies. Have you used the Yates ones? I have the metolius type and it sometimes bugs me that you can't extend them unless you have a few inches of slack in the line, in order to flip the buckle up. Anyhow, they're getting somewhat ratty and was thinking about repl...

Yeah well, I did it in a day with a partner years ago (albeit a long day), but I wanted to do it solo more as practice than anything else. After my first attempt, where I was trying to go fast and light (and got lost on that hook move :( ) I thought it'd be a good opportunity to practice hauling and...

And incidentally, the weekend before last, I figured out that hook move to the third anchor, climbed the fourth pitch and bivyed back on the third anchor. I woke up at 1am as the first few drops of rain started so I got up and put the fly on my ledge, and when I woke up at 6am it was hammering rain....

Yeah, I did leave two quicklinks on that anchor, and some webbing, and you're right, I would've liked to cut all that mank off, as well as the webbing on those fixed pins. But... no knife. I had a multi-tool in my truck and just forgot to throw the damned thing in my bag. I was actually thinking tha...

Yeah, that was kinda my thinking too. I'm going to set up a fixed line treadmill this weekend and put some miles on it, see if it slips at all.

I was on U-Wall this past weekend and dropped an ascender from the first anchor while I was rapping off in the rain. As I watched it fall to the ground I figured that it was gone for good, but when I got to the ground there it was! Right in the middle of the trail. Anyways, I've tested it out and it...

I agree, fully. I've experienced this many times in several different locations. I do think though, that you're probably preaching to the converted, and that maybe your rant would have been more effective if you brought your concerns up to the party themselves. I know that that's hard to do sometime...

YetAnotherDave wrote:There are broken-off pins and timebomb pins in a bunch of classic routes, many will now require chisels, vicegrips, and lots of sweat to remove now that the heads are broken off...

Dave

I agree that replacing a pin before it breaks is not only easier, but will do much less damage to the rock.

If you're going to be around the bugs, check out Spillimacheen, just down the road. It's primarily a sport crag, with tons of moderate routes on bomber rock. The route guide is $2 at 180 sports in Golden.

But, they're "fixed" pins. I can certainly understand the concern with pin scars on free climbs but when the pins aren't meant to be removed, those locks aren't available for free climbing anyhow. Wouldn't you be more concerned about the integrity of the fixed protection that you're potentially fall...

I was on U-Wall yesterday, the first half of the first pitch is wet, once it starts to get steep it's dry.

I attempted to solo university wall yesterday but got stumped on pitch 2 (or pitch 3 maybe, depending on what anchors you use). About four placements above the second anchor there's two fixed pins, one right above the other, once I got up onto the top one though I couldn't find a decent placement ab...

I think, like anything else, you assume a certain amount of risk and you have to be able to accept the consequences. Of course climbing without a helmet is more dangerous, but so is not stuffing in a cam every four feet. Sometimes though, you assess the risk and just run it out. There certainly are ...

Man, I gave away the couple ball locks I had a long time ago. They had the worst action of any locker I've used. Impossible to open or close with gloves on, causing quite an epic on the weeping wall a few winters back.

You're a good man Ryan. I don't care what they say about you behind your back...