SquamishClimbing.com

That upper section is forever etched in my brain as the spot where I've been the most terrified in my entire climbing carreer. While not my writing, this is EXACTLY what happened to me on my adventure up there. I bailed over to "a question..." after the first bolt and was still mentally spent at the...

Story right here with another good discussion.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/climbi ... 5957775__1

Recent post over on the TACO indicate that the importance of correct torques vary with bolt type, thickness and metal. You can easily OVER torque a 3/8in SS 5-Piece that's spec'd at 12 ft-lbs I believe. That isn't much at all. Hilti is just covering their a$% when talking to you. I've run into this ...

i am also wondering if someone would like to assist me in : a) scrubbing off the lichen--i can not get there on my own-- and adding a bolt there to avoid a big fall , or b) help me add a bolt after the leftward traverse, again to limit huge fall potential. of course we will speak to the fa's before...

Anyone know if the upper pitches (above and climbers left off of Bellygood) are finished? I did the route last spring and the Bellygood pitches as well as those left of the black dike weren't done yet