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coulda sworn that was a Jim and Craig Thompson route. yup, the old "ask permision" routine is still the best and I'm pretty sure Shack could give a fart but guessing what Barley would say is always a spin of the bottle! I just don't fancy busted ankles, even if its stumbling drunk off the curb. Mark...

Well, one way of looking at it is, as T notes, the consequences of blowing the starting moves are rather severe, and even an 11c climber should know that 10- slab is insecure for anyone. This fact probably accounts for the profound lack of action required to keep the route in good shape. I climbed i...

Is that a skill testing question Marc?

I'm sure Kevin must be very proud of Tony. Spectacular effort

Squamish still has rusty 1/4 inchers? I thought they went out with the Dodo?

I know for fact that Robin has started a local Hells Angels chapter and is currently terrorizing unsuspecting climbers in the smokebluffs with his gang of hooligans on bikes, wearing their trademark Joe Brown helmets. They shook me down for my lunch money and threatened my dog just yesterday. I repo...

Incidentally Toby, The idea of "holding the rope lightly" is not a bad idea, one that i do along with damn near everyone else. However it should be noted that if the belayer drops you in a dynamic fashion that instantly multiplies body weight by a significant degree ( tripping, rapidly unblocking gr...

I would like to point out to the moderator the following, as quoted straight off the web page: "Squamish Climbing Forum Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish." Unless of course you feel entitled to dictate otherwise. A trick I found useful when distrustful of belayers ( such as my ...

Testing test 123

This thread is starting to get rather hilarious! I'll state right now if i ever catch somebody taking me off belay on an assumption there will be holy hell to pay but hey, I'm old fashioned. However, in the interest of trying desprately to stay on topic, it sounds like these days a belayer cannot be...

I saw arecent picture of Wedge N face / arrete / couliors and they look horrible. I'd put money on James Turner being worse, as with Weart. Bad time of year and worse year yet for north faces like that.

Just curious... did Rampage get a Park use permit?

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I need to apply my own judgement and make decisions for myself that if I get wrong I could die?

Sorry, we're not giving away any trade secrets here bub. Although i hear there is a course you can take for that at CWMS!

that sums it up perfectly. Good choice for a retro scrub

ooo bad form. Liking your own FB post!