Search found 16 matches

by evenstevens
Wed Jul 05, 2017 5:03 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New route on the Zodiac: Lunar Tide
Replies: 5
Views: 15380

Re: New route on the Zodiac: Lunar Tide

Thought I would add some info while it's fresh after doing it today. Thanks a ton Jason for the big new adventure route First note is if you haven't summited anything in the north walls know that younclimb through some shitty rock, broken holds and loose kitty litter are common ( that's why the big ...
by evenstevens
Mon Jul 06, 2015 7:35 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Cleaned: Men Holding Hands and Stone Free
Replies: 5
Views: 9301

Re: Cleaned: Men Holding Hands and Stone Free

Ya I edited my post because for what ever reason I am locked on to the first two names of the route that were floating around when they were getting put up...sports action is the same as stone free. We would link the 12c pitch into the 5.9 to the ledge and then those next two pitches weren't memorab...
by evenstevens
Thu Jul 02, 2015 6:34 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Movin' to Montana cleaned up and ready for action
Replies: 5
Views: 18635

Re: Movin' to Montana cleaned up and ready for action

Ya thanks a ton! Did this a month ago, so quality. The grades felt hard for sure. Seepage when I did it, just a bit of foot dampness but easily dried off before the business. Amazing pitches, unique and fun climb, kind of a harder/scarier Cruel Shoes.
by evenstevens
Wed Jul 01, 2015 10:29 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Cleaned: Men Holding Hands and Stone Free
Replies: 5
Views: 9301

Re: Cleaned: Men Holding Hands and Stone Free

I was just looking up at those thinking how clean they looked! Good on ya! Those are some of the best pitches in squamish and deserve more traffic. The next one left 'sports action' is just as good as well and tops out nicely too. edit-I misread, thought you meant Brothers in Arms. Ya stone free/spo...
by evenstevens
Wed Aug 06, 2014 12:21 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Attack of the Arc'gucci Clones 5.11 six pitch
Replies: 9
Views: 11762

Re: Attack of the Arc'gucci Clones 5.11 six pitch

Just my worthless 2 cents after climbing this route. ******DO NOT RAPPEL WITH A 60M ROPE! USE A 70********** First and last rappels will be way too close for comfort. Some rope manufacturers cut 60m ropes as 65ms, maybe that is what happened? I have a brand new 70 and the first and last raps were cl...
by evenstevens
Fri Jun 13, 2014 4:49 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Mushy Peas Left of Opal
Replies: 5
Views: 10824

Re: Mushy Peas Left of Opal

Did this route yesterday. If you can ignore the fact that it is REALLY dirty, and needs a pretty good scrubbing, then you will be rewarded with one of the better steep jam crack multipitch climbs in Squamish, especially for the grade. It is like an easier Alaska highway. I didn't have to OW climb, d...
by evenstevens
Mon Sep 23, 2013 9:59 am
Forum: Lost & Found
Topic: LOST! Car keys at Chek
Replies: 1
Views: 2034

Re: LOST! Car keys at Chek

Thanks to whoever found them and left them on the sign there! Claim your six pack anytime...
by evenstevens
Mon Sep 16, 2013 9:05 pm
Forum: Lost & Found
Topic: LOST! Car keys at Chek
Replies: 1
Views: 2034

LOST! Car keys at Chek

Somewhere between main event and foundation wall. Toyota key chain.
by evenstevens
Wed Jun 05, 2013 8:32 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Top Shelf topos
Replies: 13
Views: 12042

Re: Top Shelf topos

It is a great addition to Squamish, and is definitely the crag du jour, think how busy Cuercus cliff was last year. I would second that the quality kicks in at 10d, I can't really remember the ones I did that were easier than that. I have tried/done lots of the routes there, and most are pretty fun,...
by evenstevens
Tue Sep 25, 2012 9:48 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Route, Prow Wall
Replies: 0
Views: 6489

New Route, Prow Wall

Not my route, but lots of friends chipped in on this one and seeing as none of them are writing it up and the best fall of climbing weather in Squamish ever is holding strong you all need to get out and tackle this one! It is more a combination of new pitches and old. I don't have a topo, but ones f...
by evenstevens
Tue Sep 04, 2012 12:14 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Krimo Gold a new route in the Bulletheads
Replies: 12
Views: 12451

Re: Krimo Gold a new route in the Bulletheads

Did this today...a worthy outing thanks for the effort; it is essentially a different access to Liquid Gold's premier pitch. The 'new' description is a bit off, the photoshopped edit of the guidebook is a bit misleading as it is NOT written by Marc Bourdon. Although this is a good route, it is not w...
by evenstevens
Tue Aug 21, 2012 9:08 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Prow Wall, new route, 'UnBearable'
Replies: 6
Views: 9915

Prow Wall, new route, 'UnBearable'

Finished up a new line on the prow wall, creating an 'everyman's' line up the amazing face. Now you only have to climb 5.12a to send the Prow Wall (every other route is at least 13a!). Shares the first pitch of Gravity Bong to access the face, and a pitch of Teddy Bears (the amazing elevator shaft) ...
by evenstevens
Sun Aug 01, 2010 4:07 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Barley Routes
Replies: 43
Views: 46296

The Feather is an okay route, 3 of 5 stars? The bolted 11- on pitch 1 is a fun warm up. P2 has a few loose blocks but is fun, tread lightly. The slab traverse pitch is the crux, with the last move being quite reachy if you are not over 6ft, 12-? The next pitch, the crack, is no harder than 11c, quit...
by evenstevens
Fri Jul 30, 2010 2:23 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: new last pitch for the Squamish buttress, 5.9
Replies: 13
Views: 13123

Squamish Butt Face

Definitely worth doing. You can make a cordolette anchor around a huge flake at the base of the 5.9 first pitch after moving the belay up from the traditional tree belay on the buttress proper. There is one bolted anchor half way along, but it would be hard to see your second from it, and difficult ...
by evenstevens
Tue Jul 06, 2010 6:29 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Wire Tap
Replies: 112
Views: 199728

wiretap

Well, lots of great points being made, but I tell you, we have to remember that the rock is a finite resource. 30 years ago the average climber couldn't walk up to a cliff and climb the 5.8-5.10 routes that we can today; ropes, gear, rubber and climbers have improved every year. Who is to say that i...