Search found 69 matches

by paulc
Thu Jul 11, 2013 11:10 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Sunset Strip horror show
Replies: 52
Views: 17864

Re: Sunset Strip horror show

t-bone wrote:Jesse, are you in fact a licensed guide (as your MeetUp profile suggests)?
LOL, the fact that you asked the question implies the answer doesn't it...

Sounds like a good route, nice work Colin and crew.

P
by paulc
Mon Jun 17, 2013 10:05 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Heli evac off north walls
Replies: 25
Views: 6558

Re: Heli evac off north walls

Sounds like pitch 7. I guess if you fell towards the top of the pitch there would be several ledges and corners to fall onto/into. Could be made much more harrowing if you fell a ways for some reason or another. Good rescue for SAR and best wishes for a swift recovery on the part of the injured clim...
by paulc
Sun Nov 25, 2012 11:22 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: The direct slab finish on Centerfold?
Replies: 10
Views: 4753

Re: The direct slab finish on Centerfold?

Agree the left facing bit is great. I think cruxy right away and then casual to the top with good gear the whole way up. Nice angled slab corner work. Fun and pretty quick to do. P
by paulc
Tue Jul 05, 2011 10:53 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: The direct slab finish on Centerfold?
Replies: 10
Views: 4753

Re: The direct slab finish on Centerfold?

yeah, I did the direct finish due to lack of guidebook/common sense as well. I blame the guidebook author however... Slandering aside, I thought hard 10d or 11a, and a bit away from the last bolt as well. About the limit of what I find fun for slab climbing. I climbed the route a few years ago and g...
by paulc
Tue Jun 28, 2011 12:20 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Upper Apron Projects
Replies: 12
Views: 4928

Re: Upper Apron Projects

Good work Anders. Question, where is the start to Granville st? Is is up a thin dyke section directly under the tree gully (trend L then hard right?) or start further L and then go up and R across to the gully. Reason I ask, I was doing Banana Peel to Granville St to Ultimate E a few years ago and d...
by paulc
Thu Jun 23, 2011 3:28 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Mank Patrol
Replies: 107
Views: 131553

Re: Mank Patrol

Re: Brunser overhang

now has a two bolt anchor in decent rock. Needs a long anchor setup to extend over the lip for a TR.

Yay, the anchor gods are listening...

P
by paulc
Sun Jun 12, 2011 12:29 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: 5.10 crack testpieces
Replies: 35
Views: 16092

Re: 5.10 crack testpieces

Funny, I was just thinking about Just Blessed. Haven't tried it, but checked it out. Looks great and crux at the top? Even Stephen has some pretty stellar rests, but the climbing is hard and has a couple of different cruxes. Mr O Clock is pretty hard for 10d, the gear on the first half of the route ...
by paulc
Mon Jun 06, 2011 8:32 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: 5.10 crack testpieces
Replies: 35
Views: 16092

Re: 5.10 crack testpieces

I second Milkrun. I seconded that years ago with Dan the Republican and was so pumped I couldn't move my leg for a few minutes then had to clean a piece on the rap down which was a sling with a binner jammed in the crack (he didn't listen when I suggested we bring at least triples in the off fingers...
by paulc
Mon May 23, 2011 8:44 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Book Suggestions
Replies: 11
Views: 3355

Re: Book Suggestions

Agree with No Picnic. Also suggest The White Spider by Harrer. About the first ascent of the N face of the Eiger.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_White_Spider

Paul
by paulc
Sat Apr 30, 2011 8:35 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Completion of SAS Phase 2 Re-bolting Initiative
Replies: 2
Views: 912

Re: Completion of SAS Phase 2 Re-bolting Initiative

Awesome is right. This is really nice stewardship of our resources, I like the keeping of the same style when rebolting, but obviously this needs to happen. When the bolts went in years ago, the intent wasn't to put junk in that would fail when you fell on it (in this case due to aging and presumabl...
by paulc
Thu Apr 14, 2011 11:46 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Interesting YouTube video: High Art on the Split Pillar
Replies: 5
Views: 2321

Re: Interesting YouTube video: High Art on the Split Pillar

Meh. Art shmart.

But major props for climbing the pillar with no shoes, that would hurt...

P
by paulc
Sun Jan 23, 2011 7:12 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Funarama not so fun anymore
Replies: 38
Views: 18316

Wow, not sure what to think here.

If he is distancing himself from these routes, then he should have no interest in them going forward as to bolting - unless this really is a pique.

Hope not. We should be working together not at odd with each other.

P
by paulc
Tue Oct 19, 2010 11:46 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Missing hanger on Zoe
Replies: 8
Views: 2866

Also noticed the odd wording on the note. Only thing we though of is that usually bolt and hanger are synonymous, though you would think that in this case the note writer would be more specific...

P
by paulc
Tue Oct 19, 2010 11:44 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Missing hanger on Zoe
Replies: 8
Views: 2866

We (Matty and I) were at Murrin on Sunday, found a hanger/washer/nut at Bog wall in the AM (left it there, wasn't for the top anchors there). Went to pet and played around and heard from other climbers (some nice Brits) that there was a missing hanger. Went back to bog wall and picked up said hardwa...
by paulc
Mon Sep 13, 2010 8:20 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: FREE SOLO ON FREEWAY ?!
Replies: 13
Views: 5841

Squamish grades are soft. Anyone who has ever climbed in the valley and had their a$% handed to them on a climb that they figured they should be able to do cuz they climb at the same grade in Squamish understands this. Oh yeah. Totally soft. I've never been so beat down in my life than the two week...