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Went up to hike the Coz Way with Kris Wild today. Very disappointed to find all our gear including bolt hangers gone. This was a legitimate route that a number of people were already enjoying in it's rough condition and a project still in development. Did some one think it was abandoned gear? Does s...

I backed off the start of Ghost Dancing a million years ago because I thought the the opening bolt placements were a poorly conceived and dangerous botch job.

PB

relic, My point exactly! At the time of that incident, my friend and I were experienced ACMG guides in top form on sighting 11+ and having a great day. That was by far and away the closest call I've had in nigh four decades of climbing and I never want to get that close again. I know of a number of ...

BK

You're still on belay and I'm ready to lower you!
Check that thread job and retie on your harness!

PB

Greetings, Looks like the mods may have had enough of the tangents on the first version of this thread. I certainly offered up a couple knee jerk, cathartic rants as some of the comments definitely pushed my buttons. In reference to the OP's question as to whether or not there's an established etiqu...

Deleted reprint.

[quote]Anyways, all kidding aside, I almost always rap routes instead of lowering. Maybe it's a trad climber thing....[/quote] Apropos of this thread's context, just what is "trad climbing"? Paul Preuss on sight soloing in the Dolomites? Vibram soles, hemp rope and soft iron pins? Kroenhoffers, Gold...

When I equip anchors for others (and my) convenience, I expect people to rap, lower, top rope, simul rap, maybe do some aerial performance and eventually wear out my hardware. I may or may not ever replace it. Let's cut to the chase and land on a rigid dogma that applies to every situation. A univer...

Nice work Marc!
Those were two of the better pitches on the Raven, the next two up the "Wingfeather Pillar" being the main event on the original aid line.
I'm confident The White Pillar is still a good adventure for people doing this route on aid and a great new outing for free climbers.

PB

BK, To the best of my knowledge, the hard stuff in question was limited to one hold on one boulder where a cave set was built. It could have been an adhesive for dressing out a chalked hold but I can't say for sure. Maybe just an honest bonehead experiment by a stressed out scenic artist. The amount...

How about that first pitch of Movin' to Montana?
It used to be an 11d RP battle that made the rest of the route feel easy by comparison.
Do they make widgets small enough to cram in there or is it still small brass?

PB

Kris, Thanks for taking this on. Movin' to Montana was one of the better adventures I've had on the Chief. One detail that requires clarification is that the route begins with the long sustained arch that used to be known as Commando Crack. It's by far and away the hardest pitch on the route and pro...

Per BK's comments, it's true I'm working on the film set near Kacademon Rock. As part of our work, I've rigged a camera high line from 80' up a nice fir to the top of Kacademon as well as a lower utility line for moving a camera crane onto platforms in the boulders. It's been challenging work made v...

Climbed Escape Velocity with Donini today. 2nd pitch was wet, scruffy and loose which is too bad because it's the only real pitch on the route. Everything else fights hard to avoid class 2 hiking on heather and the route is only somewhat defined by bolts often placed in strange places. This isn't a ...

I was one of the 4 SAR members HETS in to help the injured climber on Rock On. The media coverage was inaccurate and described a problem that didn't exist. There was no need for "crowd control" but rather, what we refer to as containment to protect the rescue team, subject and bystanders, particular...