Search found 52 matches

by pbeckham
Mon Apr 02, 2018 3:41 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Gear removed from project.
Replies: 2
Views: 6739

Gear removed from project.

Went up to hike the Coz Way with Kris Wild today. Very disappointed to find all our gear including bolt hangers gone. This was a legitimate route that a number of people were already enjoying in it's rough condition and a project still in development. Did some one think it was abandoned gear? Does s...
by pbeckham
Sat Jul 23, 2016 12:45 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Ghostdancing
Replies: 10
Views: 9264

Re: Ghostdancing

I backed off the start of Ghost Dancing a million years ago because I thought the the opening bolt placements were a poorly conceived and dangerous botch job.

PB
by pbeckham
Tue Aug 18, 2015 10:58 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Lowering off Chains Some More?
Replies: 12
Views: 5745

Re: Lowering off Chains Some More?

relic, My point exactly! At the time of that incident, my friend and I were experienced ACMG guides in top form on sighting 11+ and having a great day. That was by far and away the closest call I've had in nigh four decades of climbing and I never want to get that close again. I know of a number of ...
by pbeckham
Sun Aug 16, 2015 6:17 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Lowering off Chains Some More?
Replies: 12
Views: 5745

Re: Lowering off Chains Some More?

BK

You're still on belay and I'm ready to lower you!
Check that thread job and retie on your harness!

PB
by pbeckham
Wed Aug 12, 2015 11:40 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Lowering off Chains Some More?
Replies: 12
Views: 5745

Lowering off Chains Some More?

Greetings, Looks like the mods may have had enough of the tangents on the first version of this thread. I certainly offered up a couple knee jerk, cathartic rants as some of the comments definitely pushed my buttons. In reference to the OP's question as to whether or not there's an established etiqu...
by pbeckham
Sat Aug 08, 2015 8:33 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Lowering off chains
Replies: 28
Views: 13598

Re: Lowering off chains

Deleted reprint.
by pbeckham
Sat Aug 08, 2015 8:18 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Lowering off chains
Replies: 28
Views: 13598

Re: Lowering off chains

[quote]Anyways, all kidding aside, I almost always rap routes instead of lowering. Maybe it's a trad climber thing....[/quote] Apropos of this thread's context, just what is "trad climbing"? Paul Preuss on sight soloing in the Dolomites? Vibram soles, hemp rope and soft iron pins? Kroenhoffers, Gold...
by pbeckham
Fri Aug 07, 2015 8:01 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Lowering off chains
Replies: 28
Views: 13598

Re: Lowering off chains

When I equip anchors for others (and my) convenience, I expect people to rap, lower, top rope, simul rap, maybe do some aerial performance and eventually wear out my hardware. I may or may not ever replace it. Let's cut to the chase and land on a rigid dogma that applies to every situation. A univer...
by pbeckham
Sun Aug 02, 2015 6:40 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New North Walls Line/The Raven Free
Replies: 3
Views: 3032

Re: New North Walls Line/The Raven Free

Nice work Marc!
Those were two of the better pitches on the Raven, the next two up the "Wingfeather Pillar" being the main event on the original aid line.
I'm confident The White Pillar is still a good adventure for people doing this route on aid and a great new outing for free climbers.

PB
by pbeckham
Tue Jul 21, 2015 10:33 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Hard substance sprayed on boulders
Replies: 13
Views: 7724

Re: Hard substance sprayed on boulders

BK, To the best of my knowledge, the hard stuff in question was limited to one hold on one boulder where a cave set was built. It could have been an adhesive for dressing out a chalked hold but I can't say for sure. Maybe just an honest bonehead experiment by a stressed out scenic artist. The amount...
by pbeckham
Sun Jul 12, 2015 4:57 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Squamish's stiffest routes...
Replies: 40
Views: 25903

Re: Squamish's stiffest routes...

How about that first pitch of Movin' to Montana?
It used to be an 11d RP battle that made the rest of the route feel easy by comparison.
Do they make widgets small enough to cram in there or is it still small brass?

PB
by pbeckham
Sat Jul 04, 2015 1:10 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Movin' to Montana cleaned up and ready for action
Replies: 5
Views: 8748

Re: Movin' to Montana cleaned up and ready for action

Kris, Thanks for taking this on. Movin' to Montana was one of the better adventures I've had on the Chief. One detail that requires clarification is that the route begins with the long sustained arch that used to be known as Commando Crack. It's by far and away the hardest pitch on the route and pro...
by pbeckham
Wed Jun 24, 2015 9:50 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Hard substance sprayed on boulders
Replies: 13
Views: 7724

Re: Hard substance sprayed on boulders

Per BK's comments, it's true I'm working on the film set near Kacademon Rock. As part of our work, I've rigged a camera high line from 80' up a nice fir to the top of Kacademon as well as a lower utility line for moving a camera crane onto platforms in the boulders. It's been challenging work made v...
by pbeckham
Sun Sep 28, 2014 8:12 pm
Forum: Alpine
Topic: Escape Velocity, 5.9, Mt. Habrich
Replies: 17
Views: 19074

Re: Escape Velocity, 5.9, Mt. Habrich

Climbed Escape Velocity with Donini today. 2nd pitch was wet, scruffy and loose which is too bad because it's the only real pitch on the route. Everything else fights hard to avoid class 2 hiking on heather and the route is only somewhat defined by bolts often placed in strange places. This isn't a ...
by pbeckham
Sat Sep 06, 2014 2:43 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Climber accident on Apron Aug 23 and SAR
Replies: 2
Views: 7288

Re: Climber accident on Apron Aug 23 and SAR

I was one of the 4 SAR members HETS in to help the injured climber on Rock On. The media coverage was inaccurate and described a problem that didn't exist. There was no need for "crowd control" but rather, what we refer to as containment to protect the rescue team, subject and bystanders, particular...