Search found 22 matches
- Tue Aug 15, 2017 4:57 am
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Disaster Response (3 p 5.10) on a new wall
- Replies: 10
- Views: 27890
Re: Disaster Response (3 p 5.10) on a new wall
Finally got on this route. Great route, and I agree P2 is an absolutely classic pitch for the grade at Squamish! P1 is getting dirty unfortunately. P2 was clean, at least the wide crack. The thin/right side looked to be getting dirty. First half of P3 was clean, but the top half was a little bit dir...
- Thu Aug 07, 2014 6:00 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Sunset Strip - A Perfect "5.10" Barometer
- Replies: 16
- Views: 46959
Re: Sunset Strip - A Perfect "5.10" Barometer
And the scary flake is still there on P5.
- Thu Aug 07, 2014 4:29 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Sunset Strip - A Perfect "5.10" Barometer
- Replies: 16
- Views: 46959
Re: Sunset Strip - A Perfect "5.10" Barometer
Wow, what a great route. 1000' of Squamish granite bliss. Well protected, sustained moderate 5.10 climbing with a few short, harder cruxes. Hats off to the diggers and scrubbers. The final traverse, belay, and chimney are awesome. Cool exposure. I'll second the "bring more gear". Double rack of smal...
- Fri Aug 09, 2013 2:13 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Papoose new topo
- Replies: 6
- Views: 10943
Re: Papoose new topo
Got on Obsession (10b) shown on the new topo today. Really fun! As good as any of the other 10s I've been on at the Papoose. Super clean right now too. Varied, engaging climbing the whole way. Despite the traversy nature, very well protected for both leader and follower. P1 - Long and fun. The last ...
- Mon Aug 05, 2013 6:45 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Chebacca's 5.10b 3p at Shannon Falls
- Replies: 19
- Views: 43475
Re: Chebacca's 5.10b 3p at Shannon Falls
Great route. Nice, steep climbing and a fun departure from the frequent "fingers-in-a-corner" pitches at Squamish. While I didn't feel a bolt was needed for the step-into-the-corner move, I did feel like the bolt you clip once in the corner was oddly placed. It is way out left, and a fall from the e...
- Sun Aug 04, 2013 2:37 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Papoose new topo
- Replies: 6
- Views: 10943
Re: Papoose new topo
Climbed Transit of Venus today. P1 and P2 are super fun. The long traverse is really cool (my wife might, seconding, my disagree
The P3 corner was fairly clean, all things considered. Great route, thanks for the effort.

- Wed Jul 24, 2013 9:11 am
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Sunset Strip - A Perfect "5.10" Barometer
- Replies: 16
- Views: 46959
Re: Sunset Strip - A Perfect "5.10" Barometer
I can't seem to find a topo/details for Sunset Strip on the site? I'm sure I'm just missing something obvious 
Any hints?
thanks
Andy

Any hints?
thanks
Andy
- Wed Aug 15, 2012 7:11 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Photophobia 5.10 5 p on Slhanay (Squaw)
- Replies: 11
- Views: 13913
Re: Photophobia 5.10 5 p on Slhanay (Squaw)
Climbed the route last week. Great climb, and destined for popularity. Impressive amount of work on the launching platform at the bottom! All pitches were fun. P1 - The bolt seems perfectly placed to protect the second on the slab moves prior to the traverse. Top stemming corner is sweet and sustain...
- Wed Aug 10, 2011 7:40 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Great Drain - rap with one rope?
- Replies: 1
- Views: 2377
Great Drain - rap with one rope?
Can you rap the Great Drain (from atop P3) with one 60m rope?
Standard rack fine for the climb?
Standard rack fine for the climb?
- Wed Aug 10, 2011 7:10 am
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Milk Road/Run - traverse question AND dry?
- Replies: 4
- Views: 3447
Milk Road/Run - traverse question AND dry?
Anyone climb it recently? Is it dry (assuming it doesn't rain heavily today!)? Also, is the second at risk on the early traverse pitch? I'll be climbing with my wife, so need to keep it comfortable for her :) It sounds like the leader does a tension traverse? Will a long piece of mitigate the swing ...
- Sat Aug 06, 2011 7:31 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Bullethead East (4p, 10c) & Rainy Day Woman (4p, 11b)
- Replies: 26
- Views: 65658
Re: Bullethead East (4p, 10c) & Rainy Day Woman (4p, 11b)
Great route! Sure to become a classic. It is officially the closest route to the campground I think :) P1 - OK P2 - (10c middle option) Sustained above the roof, fun. P3 - There was a fixed line in the stembox, so we opted for the middle crack. 10b? Short crux. P4 - The 10c finger/hand splitter in a...
- Mon Aug 09, 2010 4:42 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Favorite Small Gear for Squamish Granite?
- Replies: 12
- Views: 13287
the mans got a point... omega pacific all the way Until they explode... which they have, under bodyweight. It is a design limitation inherent in the cams.... if the cam isn't aligned in the axis of the fall, the cam lobes can fail. And how often have we placed cams not perfectly in the axis of the ...
- Sat Aug 07, 2010 8:40 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: The Milk Road - 9p, 5.10d A0 (5.11d)
- Replies: 31
- Views: 33534
- Tue Aug 03, 2010 6:34 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Mosquito Area
- Replies: 52
- Views: 43561
- Mon Aug 02, 2010 4:28 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Wire Tap
- Replies: 112
- Views: 266110
Climbed Wiretap on 8/1/2010. Fun route, and a nice addition. I only had BD cams, and they were definitely a bit touchy on P3. My second claimed none of them would have held, though I thought they were acceptable when I placed them (I linked into the next pitch, so I suspect the rope pulling dislodge...