Search found 22 matches

by andypl100
Tue Aug 15, 2017 4:57 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Disaster Response (3 p 5.10) on a new wall
Replies: 10
Views: 9817

Re: Disaster Response (3 p 5.10) on a new wall

Finally got on this route. Great route, and I agree P2 is an absolutely classic pitch for the grade at Squamish! P1 is getting dirty unfortunately. P2 was clean, at least the wide crack. The thin/right side looked to be getting dirty. First half of P3 was clean, but the top half was a little bit dir...
by andypl100
Thu Aug 07, 2014 6:00 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Sunset Strip - A Perfect "5.10" Barometer
Replies: 16
Views: 14728

Re: Sunset Strip - A Perfect "5.10" Barometer

And the scary flake is still there on P5.
by andypl100
Thu Aug 07, 2014 4:29 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Sunset Strip - A Perfect "5.10" Barometer
Replies: 16
Views: 14728

Re: Sunset Strip - A Perfect "5.10" Barometer

Wow, what a great route. 1000' of Squamish granite bliss. Well protected, sustained moderate 5.10 climbing with a few short, harder cruxes. Hats off to the diggers and scrubbers. The final traverse, belay, and chimney are awesome. Cool exposure. I'll second the "bring more gear". Double rack of smal...
by andypl100
Fri Aug 09, 2013 2:13 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Papoose new topo
Replies: 6
Views: 5534

Re: Papoose new topo

Got on Obsession (10b) shown on the new topo today. Really fun! As good as any of the other 10s I've been on at the Papoose. Super clean right now too. Varied, engaging climbing the whole way. Despite the traversy nature, very well protected for both leader and follower. P1 - Long and fun. The last ...
by andypl100
Mon Aug 05, 2013 6:45 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Chebacca's 5.10b 3p at Shannon Falls
Replies: 19
Views: 12702

Re: Chebacca's 5.10b 3p at Shannon Falls

Great route. Nice, steep climbing and a fun departure from the frequent "fingers-in-a-corner" pitches at Squamish. While I didn't feel a bolt was needed for the step-into-the-corner move, I did feel like the bolt you clip once in the corner was oddly placed. It is way out left, and a fall from the e...
by andypl100
Sun Aug 04, 2013 2:37 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Papoose new topo
Replies: 6
Views: 5534

Re: Papoose new topo

Climbed Transit of Venus today. P1 and P2 are super fun. The long traverse is really cool (my wife might, seconding, my disagree ;) The P3 corner was fairly clean, all things considered. Great route, thanks for the effort.
by andypl100
Wed Jul 24, 2013 9:11 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Sunset Strip - A Perfect "5.10" Barometer
Replies: 16
Views: 14728

Re: Sunset Strip - A Perfect "5.10" Barometer

I can't seem to find a topo/details for Sunset Strip on the site? I'm sure I'm just missing something obvious :)

Any hints?

thanks
Andy
by andypl100
Wed Aug 15, 2012 7:11 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Photophobia 5.10 5 p on Slhanay (Squaw)
Replies: 11
Views: 5707

Re: Photophobia 5.10 5 p on Slhanay (Squaw)

Climbed the route last week. Great climb, and destined for popularity. Impressive amount of work on the launching platform at the bottom! All pitches were fun. P1 - The bolt seems perfectly placed to protect the second on the slab moves prior to the traverse. Top stemming corner is sweet and sustain...
by andypl100
Wed Aug 10, 2011 7:40 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Great Drain - rap with one rope?
Replies: 1
Views: 651

Great Drain - rap with one rope?

Can you rap the Great Drain (from atop P3) with one 60m rope?

Standard rack fine for the climb?
by andypl100
Wed Aug 10, 2011 7:10 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Milk Road/Run - traverse question AND dry?
Replies: 4
Views: 1154

Milk Road/Run - traverse question AND dry?

Anyone climb it recently? Is it dry (assuming it doesn't rain heavily today!)? Also, is the second at risk on the early traverse pitch? I'll be climbing with my wife, so need to keep it comfortable for her :) It sounds like the leader does a tension traverse? Will a long piece of mitigate the swing ...
by andypl100
Sat Aug 06, 2011 7:31 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Bullethead East (4p, 10c) & Rainy Day Woman (4p, 11b)
Replies: 26
Views: 15615

Re: Bullethead East (4p, 10c) & Rainy Day Woman (4p, 11b)

Great route! Sure to become a classic. It is officially the closest route to the campground I think :) P1 - OK P2 - (10c middle option) Sustained above the roof, fun. P3 - There was a fixed line in the stembox, so we opted for the middle crack. 10b? Short crux. P4 - The 10c finger/hand splitter in a...
by andypl100
Mon Aug 09, 2010 4:42 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Favorite Small Gear for Squamish Granite?
Replies: 12
Views: 2628

the mans got a point... omega pacific all the way Until they explode... which they have, under bodyweight. It is a design limitation inherent in the cams.... if the cam isn't aligned in the axis of the fall, the cam lobes can fail. And how often have we placed cams not perfectly in the axis of the ...
by andypl100
Sat Aug 07, 2010 8:40 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: The Milk Road - 9p, 5.10d A0 (5.11d)
Replies: 31
Views: 12558

How is P2 (the flake, to bolt ladder, to crack downclimb) for the second? Can the leader put in enough gear to make it reasonable for a second?

Thanks
Andy
by andypl100
Tue Aug 03, 2010 6:34 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Mosquito Area
Replies: 52
Views: 16506

Climbed here today.

Sex and Seam of Destiny were excellent! And Rock & Roll was a good time as well. I thought Sex was particularly fun, as it is somewhat atypical of a Bluffs route.

This is now one stacked crag.

Thanks for the effort.
by andypl100
Mon Aug 02, 2010 4:28 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Wire Tap
Replies: 111
Views: 47824

Climbed Wiretap on 8/1/2010. Fun route, and a nice addition. I only had BD cams, and they were definitely a bit touchy on P3. My second claimed none of them would have held, though I thought they were acceptable when I placed them (I linked into the next pitch, so I suspect the rope pulling dislodge...