Search found 77 matches

by marc_leclerc
Thu Jun 16, 2016 6:04 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Definitive Squamish Offwidth Checklist
Replies: 4
Views: 4964

Re: Definitive Squamish Offwidth Checklist

On the Prow Wall there is also 'Masher Crack'. Originally an offwidth project called the 'Fuckoffwidth' it was bolted and subsequently laybacked at 12a. Still awaiting a proper ascent I believe?

I doubt it would be laybacked if those bolts weren't around.
by marc_leclerc
Sun May 22, 2016 11:20 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: War of the Raptors/Revenge of the Couch Potato
Replies: 0
Views: 2050

War of the Raptors/Revenge of the Couch Potato

Hi all, just wanted to post a brief apology for the fixed line running down the lower grand wall apron, I'm aware that it crosses Cruel Shoes and I hope it has not been a problem for anyone. I've buffed up War of the Raptors as well as the legendary P2 of 'Revenge of the Couch Potato' and the rope w...
by marc_leclerc
Sun Oct 11, 2015 11:52 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New take on an old route at Shannon Falls
Replies: 41
Views: 30870

Re: New take on an old route at Shannon Falls

Chris I think a major factor here is that this route is still totally safe. A 10ft slide on slab isn't exactly going to end in death and dismemberment. I regularly climb routes at my limit with potential for falls much longer than 10ft and don't request a retrobolt. It just takes a bit of time and e...
by marc_leclerc
Sun Sep 06, 2015 2:59 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Names of new(ish) routes at Neat and Cool (Smoke Bluffs)?
Replies: 9
Views: 5460

Re: Names of new(ish) routes at Neat and Cool (Smoke Bluffs)

I don't know the name, but the offwidth on the right is 5.6 or 5.7. I think Brownie soloed the first recorded ascent but it was likely climbed long before... Good fun.
by marc_leclerc
Thu Sep 03, 2015 3:01 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New take on an old route at Shannon Falls
Replies: 41
Views: 30870

Re: New take on an old route at Shannon Falls

greenerj wrote:Chop the old rusty 1/4 inch aid bolt! keep the run out, end of story!
2nd this! Vancity/Squamish climbers should be stoked on the opportunity to learn how to lead climb in the real world.

should modern climbing = a glorified top rope where the leader's pro never passes beneath the knees?
by marc_leclerc
Tue Aug 04, 2015 11:00 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New North Walls Line/The Raven Free
Replies: 3
Views: 2743

Re: New North Walls Line/The Raven Free

More photos. https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/t31.0-8/q85/s960x960/11838602_10206474293792083_3120498627527012979_o.jpg Martin following the 12c. https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t31.0-8/q84/s960x960/11754848_10206474294912111_5243558178581822970_o.jpg Trying to rem...
by marc_leclerc
Sat Aug 01, 2015 8:21 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New North Walls Line/The Raven Free
Replies: 3
Views: 2743

New North Walls Line/The Raven Free

Hi guys, I finished off a project on the North Walls that is a part of the wild aid climb 'The Raven' ( A4, First Ascent Perry Beckham and Damien Kelly) Pitches 3 and 4 of 'The Raven' climb the impressive white pillar left of pitches 3 and 4 of Polaris (the wide offwidth dihedral leading to Astro Le...
by marc_leclerc
Thu Jul 16, 2015 9:43 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Best to be more discreet
Replies: 9
Views: 4431

Re: Best to be more discreet

Access to Lower Malamute isn't exactly 'threatened'. It's just closed and always will be. Everyone still climbs there anyways. Sure, keep off the tracks themselves, but taking photos from a distance and posting negative remarks against specific individuals on a public forum seems very 'high school' ...
by marc_leclerc
Sun Jul 05, 2015 7:20 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Hiking vs Gondola to reach Habrich routes, etc.
Replies: 1
Views: 843

Re: Hiking vs Gondola to reach Habrich routes, etc.

Hi Dave, hiking up sky pilot from the valley isn't as epic as people sometimes make it out to be. I'd say 2.5 hours is definitely on the slow side of things for a climber with a pack full of gear. The trail is not at continuously steep as the first peak, there are lots of flat rambling sections and ...
by marc_leclerc
Thu Jul 02, 2015 1:11 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Cleaned: Men Holding Hands and Stone Free
Replies: 5
Views: 3154

Re: Cleaned: Men Holding Hands and Stone Free

Thanks Travis! That's rad, haven't done men holding hands yet but stone free is really good, complete with a sideways dyno at the start of the crux pitch!
by marc_leclerc
Mon Jun 29, 2015 8:09 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: squamish via ferrata
Replies: 10
Views: 6587

Re: squamish via ferrata

In my opinion, via ferratta's should be limited to short annoying bits of fifth class messing up a perfectly good hike that anyone can do. As soon as you need a rope to climb an iron ladder, you have to wonder why. Some city slickers might get some pretty wierd ideas all of a sudden in terms of the...
by marc_leclerc
Mon Jun 29, 2015 3:38 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: University wall and Uncle Bens
Replies: 2
Views: 1172

Re: University wall and Uncle Bens

Hi dac33, regarding these two routes. I've rope soloed both a couple of times using a variety of techniques. To answer your questions, On U wall the only mandatory free moves I recall are in a chimney/offwidth feature on pitch 4. This part is about 5.7 or so, with a (slightly dodgy) fixed pin to hel...
by marc_leclerc
Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:03 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: squamish via ferrata
Replies: 10
Views: 6587

Re: squamish via ferrata

BK wrote:Cerro Torre for instance!
('Starts sharpening chisels)
by marc_leclerc
Wed Jun 24, 2015 12:16 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: squamish via ferrata
Replies: 10
Views: 6587

Re: squamish via ferrata

Yes yes, all true! but to climb them still requires an expensive rope, cams and whatnot, and (in North America it seems) has some sort of 'xtreme' stigma attached to the whole thing to non climbers. The ferrata is an inexpensive (once it's up) way for families, or anyone who wouldn't normally seek o...
by marc_leclerc
Wed Jun 24, 2015 7:25 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: squamish via ferrata
Replies: 10
Views: 6587

Re: squamish via ferrata

how will they stop someone from doing this unguided? Interesting question! I wish the term "via ferrata" weren't used for this kind of closed-access commercial thing. In europe, via ferrata are just extensions to the normal trail system, open to all. Yes! And they are fun for people, providing safe...