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On the Prow Wall there is also 'Masher Crack'. Originally an offwidth project called the 'Fuckoffwidth' it was bolted and subsequently laybacked at 12a. Still awaiting a proper ascent I believe?

I doubt it would be laybacked if those bolts weren't around.

Hi all, just wanted to post a brief apology for the fixed line running down the lower grand wall apron, I'm aware that it crosses Cruel Shoes and I hope it has not been a problem for anyone. I've buffed up War of the Raptors as well as the legendary P2 of 'Revenge of the Couch Potato' and the rope w...

Chris I think a major factor here is that this route is still totally safe. A 10ft slide on slab isn't exactly going to end in death and dismemberment. I regularly climb routes at my limit with potential for falls much longer than 10ft and don't request a retrobolt. It just takes a bit of time and e...

I don't know the name, but the offwidth on the right is 5.6 or 5.7. I think Brownie soloed the first recorded ascent but it was likely climbed long before... Good fun.

greenerj wrote:Chop the old rusty 1/4 inch aid bolt! keep the run out, end of story!

2nd this! Vancity/Squamish climbers should be stoked on the opportunity to learn how to lead climb in the real world.

should modern climbing = a glorified top rope where the leader's pro never passes beneath the knees?

More photos. https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/t31.0-8/q85/s960x960/11838602_10206474293792083_3120498627527012979_o.jpg Martin following the 12c. https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t31.0-8/q84/s960x960/11754848_10206474294912111_5243558178581822970_o.jpg Trying to rem...

Hi guys, I finished off a project on the North Walls that is a part of the wild aid climb 'The Raven' ( A4, First Ascent Perry Beckham and Damien Kelly) Pitches 3 and 4 of 'The Raven' climb the impressive white pillar left of pitches 3 and 4 of Polaris (the wide offwidth dihedral leading to Astro Le...

Access to Lower Malamute isn't exactly 'threatened'. It's just closed and always will be. Everyone still climbs there anyways. Sure, keep off the tracks themselves, but taking photos from a distance and posting negative remarks against specific individuals on a public forum seems very 'high school' ...

Hi Dave, hiking up sky pilot from the valley isn't as epic as people sometimes make it out to be. I'd say 2.5 hours is definitely on the slow side of things for a climber with a pack full of gear. The trail is not at continuously steep as the first peak, there are lots of flat rambling sections and ...

Thanks Travis! That's rad, haven't done men holding hands yet but stone free is really good, complete with a sideways dyno at the start of the crux pitch!

In my opinion, via ferratta's should be limited to short annoying bits of fifth class messing up a perfectly good hike that anyone can do. As soon as you need a rope to climb an iron ladder, you have to wonder why. Some city slickers might get some pretty wierd ideas all of a sudden in terms of the...

Hi dac33, regarding these two routes. I've rope soloed both a couple of times using a variety of techniques. To answer your questions, On U wall the only mandatory free moves I recall are in a chimney/offwidth feature on pitch 4. This part is about 5.7 or so, with a (slightly dodgy) fixed pin to hel...

BK wrote:Cerro Torre for instance!

('Starts sharpening chisels)

Yes yes, all true! but to climb them still requires an expensive rope, cams and whatnot, and (in North America it seems) has some sort of 'xtreme' stigma attached to the whole thing to non climbers. The ferrata is an inexpensive (once it's up) way for families, or anyone who wouldn't normally seek o...

how will they stop someone from doing this unguided? Interesting question! I wish the term "via ferrata" weren't used for this kind of closed-access commercial thing. In europe, via ferrata are just extensions to the normal trail system, open to all. Yes! And they are fun for people, providing safe...