Search found 10 matches

by dgauley
Wed Aug 24, 2016 6:08 am
Forum: Lost & Found
Topic: More shoes
Replies: 0
Views: 3049

More shoes

Found another pair of shoes. This time at nightmare rock. Pm me to get them back
by dgauley
Thu Aug 18, 2016 6:23 am
Forum: Lost & Found
Topic: Shoes
Replies: 0
Views: 2430

Shoes

Found a pair of shoes at the top of freeway. If they're yours, get in touch and you can be reunited.
by dgauley
Mon Aug 02, 2010 6:47 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New routes at Papoose
Replies: 7
Views: 4485

It is a direct start for pamplemousse. Face and slab 5.11. Crux is where the bolts are.
There is also a new station below the 5.12 pitch, and a new bolt on the 5.12.
by dgauley
Wed Jun 16, 2010 7:45 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Flight of the Challenger pin
Replies: 31
Views: 9318

Absolutely do not place a bolt. There is a reason the first bolt from club flex has it's hanger missing(i did not remove it). Most people find a bolt placed this close to an aesthetically beautiful line like flight offensive. The pin, which was a lost arrow was replaced i believe last year with a le...
by dgauley
Wed Jun 16, 2010 7:45 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Flight of the Challenger pin
Replies: 31
Views: 9318

Absolutely do not place a bolt. There is a reason the first bolt from club flex has it's hanger missing(i did not remove it). Most people find a bolt placed this close to an aesthetically beautiful line like flight offensive. The pin, which was a lost arrow was replaced i believe last year with a le...
by dgauley
Sat Aug 08, 2009 7:37 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Missing hanger on Hairpin 10d pitch
Replies: 14
Views: 5121

Direct start starts about 20m left of start of hairpin. Follows cracks and seams up and right to 4 bolts(crux) and first anchor of hairpin. Pamplemousse follows finger splitter left to bolted station. Mixed route branches right off this pitch through roofs right of pamplemousse to rap anchor. Pample...
by dgauley
Fri Aug 07, 2009 7:58 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Missing hanger on Hairpin 10d pitch
Replies: 14
Views: 5121

The bolted line going through the roofs right of pamplemousse is 10+/11-.
I cleaned, and retroed Pamplemousse, added a new station, and direct start. It goes directly to the first pitch on hairpin, and is about 11c. So pamplemousse has 3 pitches, 11c,11a/b,12b.
by dgauley
Sat Jun 06, 2009 7:10 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Life 5.11b (?) route info
Replies: 2
Views: 1942

There is a topo in the new route book at climb on. The first ascent was Trevor Macdonald, and Jim Martinello. The grades they gave it go at 10a,11c,10c,10c,10b. Great route. The best way to descend is to climb up and right up a few fixed lines to access astro ledge. Then do some cragging up there an...
by dgauley
Tue Oct 14, 2008 10:41 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: new route
Replies: 7
Views: 4139

Well Craig never one to argue online, call me anytime to talk. That route was acually cleaned 2 yrs ago by rich wheater, and as far as i knew was an open project. I had heard that you epoxy'ed some stuff on presto and added a bolt, but as far as a closed project no. I removed one fixed nut, which yo...
by dgauley
Thu Oct 02, 2008 8:08 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: new route
Replies: 7
Views: 4139

new route

new route left of presto at nightmare rock.
Calm like a bomb 12b r. Excellent climbing, challenging protection. A 000 grey C3 is mandatory in the initial offset, it goes in vertically then is pulled down into position.
The line was cleaned a while ago, and someone has a pink rope fixed.
enjoy