Search found 62 matches

by jstod
Sat Oct 29, 2016 5:19 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Sunblessed vandalism
Replies: 3
Views: 7022

Re: Sunblessed vandalism

^^^
Totally! Cost of chain is through the roof these days... Maybe we need a foreign buyers tax on that too?!
by jstod
Mon Oct 10, 2016 7:59 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Sunblessed vandalism
Replies: 3
Views: 7022

Sunblessed vandalism

I posted this on the Squamish Climbing FB group page as well, but figured this was worth spreading as far as possible in order to dissuade this type of thing in the future. Climbed Sunblessed today and someone has fixed a 2m+ chain to the first bolt, using a quicklink that has been closed with red l...
by jstod
Fri Sep 25, 2015 9:03 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Teetering on the Brink of Madness
Replies: 20
Views: 8214

Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness

There was a post on MountainProject from 2013 that indicated the route is mossy - has anyone been up there since? Climbed this route last season and don't recall any problems with moss. There may have been some to the left of the crux on second to last pitch but that didn't interfere with the climb...
by jstod
Mon Jul 06, 2015 3:38 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New take on an old route at Shannon Falls
Replies: 41
Views: 27393

Re: New take on an old route at Shannon Falls

I haven't climbed this route yet but am really looking forward to giving it a go. Clearly that leaves me unqualified to comment on the specific nature of the runout climbing here but i can think of several classic cracks in Squamish that feature bold moves well above gear. Here are a few: Yorkshire ...
by jstod
Tue Jun 30, 2015 10:53 pm
Forum: Alpine
Topic: Harvey - Pup Buttress
Replies: 6
Views: 3944

Re: Harvey - Pup Buttress

I believe the pin McLane describes as being at the start of the route has been gone for a few years. When we climbed it (in 07?) we scoured what we figured was the start, looking for the pin… Eventually saw a relatively fresh looking rock-scar with a rust stain below it - looked like the rock had fl...
by jstod
Tue Sep 16, 2014 8:54 pm
Forum: Climbing Photos and Videos
Topic: Pic of the day!
Replies: 203
Views: 57251

Re: Pic of the day!

Cool shots Dakine - Fore! is such a good climb!

JS
by jstod
Fri Aug 29, 2014 11:38 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Honnold solos U-Wall?
Replies: 7
Views: 9286

Re: Honnold solos U-Wall?

Supposedly he recently retook the speed record on Grand Wall as well - 38 minutes…!
by jstod
Thu Aug 28, 2014 5:08 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Honnold solos U-Wall?
Replies: 7
Views: 9286

Re: Honnold solos U-Wall?

pretty incredible stuff!
by jstod
Fri Sep 27, 2013 10:07 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: The new Robin Barley guidebook.
Replies: 8
Views: 6706

Re: The new Robin Barley guidebook.

Valhalla's got it. They sold out of their first shipment right away but had more copies when i was in yesterday.

JS
by jstod
Wed Aug 28, 2013 11:14 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Squamish's stiffest routes...
Replies: 39
Views: 24292

Re: Squamish's stiffest routes...

Just because basking in defeat and humiliation is so fun I thought I'd revive this thread and would like to nominate "Never Say Never" on Gobsmacking wall to this list. This one has caused me to totally re-evaluate my self-worth as a climber… perhaps it's just that overhanging off-hand jams to insec...
by jstod
Wed Aug 28, 2013 10:55 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Manslaughter charges filed in Tito's death
Replies: 10
Views: 5058

Re: Manslaughter charges filed in Tito's death

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/manslaughter-charges-filed-after-titos-accident So opinions? Could the same charges be filed under our Canadian judicial system? Then it begs the question, " What would happen if there was an accident caused by a faulty fixed draw that caused a fatality?" An...
by jstod
Wed Aug 28, 2013 10:43 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Chebacca's 5.10b 3p at Shannon Falls
Replies: 19
Views: 12775

Re: Chebacca's 5.10b 3p at Shannon Falls

Really fun route - thanks to those who cleaned it up!

Julian
by jstod
Fri Jul 05, 2013 2:03 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Sunset Strip horror show
Replies: 51
Views: 15461

Re: Sunset Strip horror show

Haven't climbed it yet but planning to this weekend. Consequently, can't offer an opinion on the route. I do think that if you start a thread with a long-winded and hostile post calling-out a well respected member of the Squamish climbing community as "plain stupid and [who] would be better off bolt...
by jstod
Mon Jun 24, 2013 8:31 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Routes at Up Among the Firs
Replies: 7
Views: 1980

Re: New Routes at Up Among the Firs

For what it's worth, i found the noodles to be pretty solid at 5.9. Perhaps a little on the + side because the difficulties are more sustained, but for me they are definitely in the same ballpark (difficulty wise) as Mushroom, Up Up and away, Penny Lane, Cold Comfort. The 11a also felt pretty spot-o...
by jstod
Mon Jun 24, 2013 8:15 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Squamish Link-Up
Replies: 6
Views: 2521

Re: Squamish Link-Up

Solid way to spend one of the longest days of the year - great read too!

JS