Search found 50 matches

by Jason
Sat May 03, 2008 10:24 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: new hut being built on the chief
Replies: 9
Views: 3362

Yeah, there used to be a hut on the Dance Platform.
by Jason
Fri Aug 31, 2007 5:35 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: U-Wall Aid Beta?
Replies: 20
Views: 7484

Now that this old post has resurfaced I see I didn't read Dave's last post.. Dave, it's gone free without the pins - trust me. If you want me to cite my sources please feel free to contact me. Sure, remove them... but please don't replace them. Believe me, I'm almost as fixed-pro friendly as any guy...
by Jason
Mon Jun 04, 2007 7:57 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: "What to make of it" Rant
Replies: 17
Views: 6565

Just be personable. And fast.

From my experience, if you are prodigious at these two skills you will never have to wait on Diedre - you can pass every party.
by Jason
Mon Jun 04, 2007 7:51 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: 10c variation after Perry's
Replies: 8
Views: 2322

I've done the left variation. It's very green and dirty, often the wettest option, and involves considerable flakey rock. Some people, myself included, feel these qualities detract from a pitch of climbing.

That being said, I'd recommend it - because really, why not?
by Jason
Mon Jun 04, 2007 7:46 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: U-Wall Aid Beta?
Replies: 20
Views: 7484

Driving any pins into rock that has gone clean (and still undoubtably will without fixed gear) seems like a clear step backwards to me.

Did I mention it's a free climb?

Let's have some proper resource management, folks.
by Jason
Sun Jun 03, 2007 6:00 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: 12c/ 12d recommendations
Replies: 22
Views: 6266

The Flight of the Challenger and Zap Crack are hands down the best 12c and d single pitches in the Sea-to-Sky Corridor
by Jason
Fri Jun 01, 2007 4:28 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: 10c variation after Perry's
Replies: 8
Views: 2322

You've been told wrong.
by Jason
Thu May 31, 2007 9:39 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: 10c variation after Perry's
Replies: 8
Views: 2322

which 10c after Perry's - the left, middle, or right? There are 3 lines and are all about 5.10.

As for the chimneys, you can miss out on the 4" piece if you can lieback like a champ, otherwise, one big cam will see you through.
by Jason
Tue May 22, 2007 8:44 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: North North Arete
Replies: 15
Views: 6631

There is a trail which is a few seasons old that leads to the NN Arete and NN gully. It is the next trail beyond the Angels' Crest and as of last fall, was flagged at the head and along its length with pink flagging tape.

Keep your eyes peeled on the right just as the Squaw comes in to view!

J
by Jason
Mon May 21, 2007 5:00 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: U-Wall Aid Beta?
Replies: 20
Views: 7484

Those pins are not critical to the free ascent. It has been successfully led without them. My point remains that the continued use of iron changes the rock.

J
by Jason
Sun May 20, 2007 12:57 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: U-Wall Aid Beta?
Replies: 20
Views: 7484

I'd have a problem with the replacement of pins on U Wall. It's a freeclimb, and I consider the eventual widening of locks on our freeclimbs as a bad thing, indeed.

Besides, for aid climbers, small BD stoppers usually work well enough in the scars left behind.
by Jason
Sun Mar 11, 2007 1:25 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: see it to believe it
Replies: 5
Views: 2345

Hey, thank for scrubbing out the South Arete. It's a fun rockclimb.

As far as chemical cleaning agents in Squamish, their use is a time-honoured tradition. I personally do not utilize them, nor do I condone their use.
by Jason
Tue Jan 23, 2007 4:30 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Scottish tale?
Replies: 13
Views: 5731

I got a little a head of myself.. The above (in italics) is the actual image file on the web, your post contained only the page in which the image was found.

Image
by Jason
Fri Jan 12, 2007 3:45 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: any body got a topo of the west face of el cap?
Replies: 4
Views: 1691

Yeah, I agree it is the big 'so what'.

Good thing I wasted both our time..