Search found 77 matches

by rolfr
Fri Jun 24, 2016 8:35 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Ghostdancing
Replies: 10
Views: 7962

Re: Ghostdancing

Hi Bruce, Sticky Fingers was my creation and Colin did ask permission before he added that bolt. Back in the day when we pushed 5.11/12 on slabs 5.10 seemed trivial. Ivan and I rated that first move on Sticky Fingers 10A, I was surprised to see the new rating. People just don't climb slabs any more,...
by rolfr
Thu Jun 09, 2016 7:17 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Ghostdancing
Replies: 10
Views: 7962

Re: Ghostdancing

If you're climbing an 11C route it's assumed you won't blow the 5.10- moves to the first bolt.
by rolfr
Thu Dec 31, 2015 9:51 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Skaha Bluffs Park Watch Society
Replies: 0
Views: 1305

Skaha Bluffs Park Watch Society

As most of you know, we had a rash of break-ins at the parking lot in Skaha last season. A group of local climbers formed the Skaha Bluffs Park Watch Society and met with all levels of local and provincial authorities. I am extremely happy to announce the City of Penticton has approved a grant of $1...
by rolfr
Fri Oct 16, 2015 3:06 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New take on an old route at Shannon Falls
Replies: 41
Views: 25786

Re: New take on an old route at Shannon Falls

HA HA ability to asses situations based on your skill level Was the misspelling intentional? :lol: Asses is definetly what you use if you don't have the skill level! I reserve the right to change my opinion, don't add a bolt, I forgot how rewarding and focused runouts are, until I repeated a few old...
by rolfr
Fri Oct 16, 2015 2:52 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Teetering on the Brink of Madness
Replies: 20
Views: 7835

Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness

A few thoughts from the "back in my day climber". I always felt Teetering was a far more serious route, on the 4th crack pitch leading to the slab, the crux was well above your bolt, at a hard 10D/11A ,while DITL only had serious run-outs on the easier pitches. That pitch always had my attention! Fo...
by rolfr
Sun Aug 30, 2015 9:39 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New take on an old route at Shannon Falls
Replies: 41
Views: 25786

Re: New take on an old route at Shannon Falls

Another opinion from an old route setter. When Colin Moorehead established Sunset Strip he asked my permission to add a bolt at the starting 5.10 scary slab. Adding that bolt made my overgrown first pitch of Sticky Finger popular again, and in a very small part contributed to the popularity of Sunse...
by rolfr
Thu Aug 27, 2015 6:04 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Thefts from Parking Lots - an informal survey
Replies: 2
Views: 1518

Re: Thefts from Parking Lots - an informal survey

Skaha has similar problems that we are trying to address. The sad part is that responsibility will be down loaded to the victims and tax payers. Parks has had their budgets decimated, RCMP have become jaded towards property crimes, bigger fish to fry. Local municipal and city authorities will nod th...
by rolfr
Sun Aug 16, 2015 9:49 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Lowering off Chains Some More?
Replies: 12
Views: 4911

Re: Lowering off Chains Some More?

Back on topic, BK made a valid point, lowering or rapping is about trusting your partner. Another consideration is the placement of the anchours, too many old, route setters still adhere to the misguided belief that anchour bolts and rings should be parallel apart. Redundancy is still achieved with ...
by rolfr
Sat Aug 15, 2015 5:14 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Bolts Smashed - Tunnel Rock
Replies: 9
Views: 5657

Re: Bolts Smashed - Tunnel Rock

Drew are you sure it was Robin? First hand information? I climbed there at the end of May then had tea with Robin afterwards, he seemed quite pleased that someone actually climbed there and enjoyed the routes.
by rolfr
Sat Aug 15, 2015 5:04 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Ghostdancing
Replies: 10
Views: 7962

Re: Ghostdancing

Did it a few times BITD, excellent route worth a rescrub, always thought the crux on 2nd pitch was more like 11C. A forgotten classic.
by rolfr
Fri Aug 07, 2015 6:56 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Lowering off chains
Replies: 28
Views: 11593

Re: Lowering off chains

Lowering off chains is just part of the problem, top roping off fixed anchour is the worst culprit ! I 've spent thousands of dollars establishing new safe routes, there isn't a magic tooth fairy that replaces worn out anchours, bring a quick link or leaver biner as part of your rack and be part of ...
by rolfr
Fri Jul 17, 2015 8:56 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Best to be more discreet
Replies: 9
Views: 4214

Re: Best to be more discreet

It was exactly actions like Bearbreeder pointed out, that contributed to the closure of the lower Malamute. Last time I climbed at the Malamute, there were obvious, No Trespassing signs on the access trails. Unless the dog knows how to rappel, I doubt anyone could have missed them. I also disagree w...
by rolfr
Sun Jun 21, 2015 9:29 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: "USHBA" failure - ground fall
Replies: 19
Views: 11235

Re: "USHBA" failure - ground fall

Bruce how old was the rope? New? Recently there was another accident in Skaha due to multiple causes. The belayer tripped while lowering the leader on an ATC, the new rope slide through the device before she could regain control resulting in a ground fall. A day before the accident I had spoken with...
by rolfr
Sun Jun 21, 2015 9:27 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: "USHBA" failure - ground fall
Replies: 19
Views: 11235

Re: "USHBA" failure - ground fall

Bruce how old was the rope? New? Recently there was another accident in Skaha due to multiple causes. The belayer tripped while lowering the leader on an ATC, the new rope slide through the device before she could regain control resulting in a ground fall. A day before the accident I had spoken with...
by rolfr
Thu Nov 28, 2013 10:11 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Crag at Tunnel Rock - Smoke Bluffs
Replies: 7
Views: 7338

Re: New Crag at Tunnel Rock - Smoke Bluffs

Squamish is actually behind the times on best standards practices. Don't dismiss glue in's,they are actually stronger than expansion bolts. http://www.upskillclimbing.com/2009/02/how-to-bolt-rock-climbs-and-how-not-to.html Until someone actually speaks with Robin about his methodology, chopping his...