Search found 396 matches

by Dru
Fri Nov 30, 2012 9:58 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: moderate route developers dream post!
Replies: 11
Views: 4554

Re: moderate route developers dream post!

This sounds like a new trail up the bushwacking south approach to Valley of Shaddai and the multipitch cliff mentioned sounds a lot like Glenn Payan's Mountaineer's Cliff?
by Dru
Wed Oct 31, 2012 7:06 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: any development above highlands/ questU
Replies: 2
Views: 1658

Re: any development above highlands/ questU

Are there even any cliffs up there? I suppose the odd boulder might be hidden in the woods. I've done forestry work in the area and the only interesting stuff I remember seeing was a short overhanging pocketed cliff of loose volcanic rock.
by Dru
Fri Oct 26, 2012 5:20 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Trees Cut at Pet Wall
Replies: 20
Views: 6021

Re: Trees Cut at Pet Wall

2eREP wrote:
If I’m not very much mistaken, I do believe that I’ve inadvertently tapped into a taboo subject inducing a behavioral-herding moral panic.
Or it could just be that you are wrong. Did they talk about that in your sociology course?
by Dru
Tue Oct 23, 2012 3:10 pm
Forum: Alpine
Topic: witch's tooth - Dione
Replies: 1
Views: 1806

Re: witch's tooth - Dione

5.9, first ascent early 70s (71? 73?) is all I remember.

The 5.9 grade from that era is something to be wary of because the same thing would probably get called mid 5.10 nowadays.
by Dru
Mon Oct 15, 2012 5:39 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Climbing destinations - need recommendations
Replies: 12
Views: 3603

Re: Climbing destinations - need recommendations

Would bouldering fit the bill? If so look at Castle Hill. Best spot in the world for it IMHO.
by Dru
Fri Oct 12, 2012 1:36 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: British climber Hazel Findlay puts up new 5.13R crack climb
Replies: 4
Views: 2098

Re: British climber Hazel Findlay puts up new 5.13R crack cl

About 15 years or so ago Will Dorling and friends had an area called the Forgotten Realm that was behind (east of) the col between Slhanay and the Chief. Luc Mailloux had a whole crag of offwidths that was back in the same area c. 2000. You got to it off the Habrich road (below the road, left of Sco...
by Dru
Thu Sep 27, 2012 9:53 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Simul Rapping
Replies: 21
Views: 9584

Re: Simul Rapping

On nice clean slabs with fast pulls and chain/ring rap anchors simulrapping can give you significant time savings, as JMace said. I've only ever done it a few places. Coming off Snootli Express in Bella Coola we got down 12-13 raps in just under two hours; rapping one at a time would have added at l...
by Dru
Wed Sep 26, 2012 10:46 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: The climb to the right of Hanging Gardens?
Replies: 5
Views: 2265

Re: The climb to the right of Hanging Gardens?

It could be Miles Holt's route, I can't remember the exact name but it's something like "Ex wives and New Lives" and 5.11 IIRC
by Dru
Wed Sep 26, 2012 7:56 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Bullethead East (4p, 10c) & Rainy Day Woman (4p, 11b)
Replies: 26
Views: 15627

Re: Bullethead East (4p, 10c) & Rainy Day Woman (4p, 11b)

I thought the second pitch of Bullethead East was harder than Caboose.
by Dru
Wed Sep 19, 2012 7:41 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Mount Habrich
Replies: 18
Views: 7248

Re: Mount Habrich

I climbed the original nose route with Andy Cairns in 1992. It's about a pitch to the right of LOE, but it's a super good trad 5.9, well worth doing.

If KM had hyped it a bit more in guidebooks it'd get done every weekend.
by Dru
Tue Sep 18, 2012 8:22 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Stories of Squamish Climbers in Yosemite
Replies: 15
Views: 8310

Re: Stories of Squamish Climbers in Yosemite

Dave how come you spell her name Hetchel and her dad's name Hetchell when in actuality they are both named Hechtel?
by Dru
Fri Sep 14, 2012 2:38 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Attention New Routers/Scrubbers etc
Replies: 9
Views: 3394

Re: Attention New Routers/Scrubbers etc

I could do 50 bolts and 50 hangers.
by Dru
Thu Sep 13, 2012 2:19 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Favourite pitch in Squamish - any grade - any style
Replies: 32
Views: 13329

Re: Favourite pitch in Squamish - any grade - any style

Favorite pitch and favorite route are obviously pretty different things. My favorite pitch is probably some one pitch deal that's maybe not even all that good but that stands out as a personal milestone. Favorite route would be one of the long ones, even though none of the individual pitches on it m...
by Dru
Wed Sep 12, 2012 5:32 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Squamish's stiffest routes...
Replies: 39
Views: 24222

Re: Squamish's stiffest routes...

I seem to recall climbing Token Brits Direct with Scrubber and getting pretty worked by the route. Ran into John Howe later at the coffee shop and he asked me what I had been climbing. He laughed when I told him. Pretty sure that that suggests his opinion of the grade on that one. Clean Corner is pr...
by Dru
Wed Sep 12, 2012 5:27 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: If Squish is soft, what should get downgraded?
Replies: 6
Views: 2086

Re: If Squish is soft, what should get downgraded?

The arch direct on Over The Rainbow is 5.8 yet guidebooks have it as hard as 10b.