SquamishClimbing.com

This sounds like a new trail up the bushwacking south approach to Valley of Shaddai and the multipitch cliff mentioned sounds a lot like Glenn Payan's Mountaineer's Cliff?

Are there even any cliffs up there? I suppose the odd boulder might be hidden in the woods. I've done forestry work in the area and the only interesting stuff I remember seeing was a short overhanging pocketed cliff of loose volcanic rock.

2eREP wrote:
If I’m not very much mistaken, I do believe that I’ve inadvertently tapped into a taboo subject inducing a behavioral-herding moral panic.

Or it could just be that you are wrong. Did they talk about that in your sociology course?

5.9, first ascent early 70s (71? 73?) is all I remember.

The 5.9 grade from that era is something to be wary of because the same thing would probably get called mid 5.10 nowadays.

Would bouldering fit the bill? If so look at Castle Hill. Best spot in the world for it IMHO.

About 15 years or so ago Will Dorling and friends had an area called the Forgotten Realm that was behind (east of) the col between Slhanay and the Chief. Luc Mailloux had a whole crag of offwidths that was back in the same area c. 2000. You got to it off the Habrich road (below the road, left of Sco...

On nice clean slabs with fast pulls and chain/ring rap anchors simulrapping can give you significant time savings, as JMace said. I've only ever done it a few places. Coming off Snootli Express in Bella Coola we got down 12-13 raps in just under two hours; rapping one at a time would have added at l...

It could be Miles Holt's route, I can't remember the exact name but it's something like "Ex wives and New Lives" and 5.11 IIRC

I thought the second pitch of Bullethead East was harder than Caboose.

I climbed the original nose route with Andy Cairns in 1992. It's about a pitch to the right of LOE, but it's a super good trad 5.9, well worth doing.

If KM had hyped it a bit more in guidebooks it'd get done every weekend.

Dave how come you spell her name Hetchel and her dad's name Hetchell when in actuality they are both named Hechtel?

I could do 50 bolts and 50 hangers.

Favorite pitch and favorite route are obviously pretty different things. My favorite pitch is probably some one pitch deal that's maybe not even all that good but that stands out as a personal milestone. Favorite route would be one of the long ones, even though none of the individual pitches on it m...

I seem to recall climbing Token Brits Direct with Scrubber and getting pretty worked by the route. Ran into John Howe later at the coffee shop and he asked me what I had been climbing. He laughed when I told him. Pretty sure that that suggests his opinion of the grade on that one. Clean Corner is pr...

The arch direct on Over The Rainbow is 5.8 yet guidebooks have it as hard as 10b.