Search found 73 matches

by hafilax
Tue Sep 10, 2013 1:28 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Block on Banana Peel
Replies: 6
Views: 4582

Block on Banana Peel

I climbed Banana Peel this weekend and it looked to me like the big block near the top (last or 2nd last pitch depending on the variation) has shifted since I climbed it a few weeks ago. You can see white rock where the top corner looks like it used to sit. Not sure if it's of any actual concern but...
by hafilax
Sun Aug 11, 2013 8:45 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: The Pillary (the expansion to Area 44) is now OPEN!
Replies: 7
Views: 5307

Re: The Pillary (the expansion to Area 44) is now OPEN!

I went to Area 44 today and had a chance to check out The Pillary. Only got on one route but the climbing was very enjoyable and can't wait to get back to try out some of the other offerings. The trail work is impressive as well.

Thanks to those who put in all the work.
by hafilax
Tue Sep 25, 2012 8:05 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Bullethead East (4p, 10c) & Rainy Day Woman (4p, 11b)
Replies: 26
Views: 15615

Re: Bullethead East (4p, 10c) & Rainy Day Woman (4p, 11b)

did it 2 weeks ago before i left for the rockies excellent climbing but the grading is very soft IMO p1 - 5.8 make sure you dont traverse too high p2 - 5.9+ one slightly tricky move at the bulge, perfect gear, watch for drag, very similar to cider crack p3 - 5.9 for the finger crack, one slightly t...
by hafilax
Mon Sep 17, 2012 12:32 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: What have you climbed lately?
Replies: 48
Views: 11495

Re: What have you climbed lately?

Got out climbing for just the 6th time this year. We went up Bulletheads East which is full of really fun climbing. Highly recommended. Finished off the day with Arrowroot.
by hafilax
Thu Aug 30, 2012 3:30 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Is Squamish Soft?
Replies: 83
Views: 14771

Re: Is Squamish Soft?

I know someone who got off-route on the dyke traverse of Snake, fell and broke his heels on the slab below.
by hafilax
Fri Aug 24, 2012 9:20 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Is Squamish Soft?
Replies: 83
Views: 14771

Re: Is Squamish Soft?

$30 for beer or bolts?

For the most part I think Squamish is a little soft with some exceptions. Old routes that don't get climbed much haven't kept up with inflation and can surprise. Routes with lots of stars also seem to be resistant to grade creep.
by hafilax
Mon Aug 13, 2012 9:34 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: The Common Wealth - New Trad Crag Murrin Park
Replies: 16
Views: 6958

Re: The Common Wealth - New Trad Crag Murrin Park

I was next to the party on Fanfare when the rock came out. He kicked it off with his foot; probably 5m up the climb. The upper left crack is all pretty hollow sounding and one rock is rattly. I really enjoyed the climbing. Kind of an intermediate's Sugarloaf. Looked like there's some potential for m...
by hafilax
Fri Aug 10, 2012 4:21 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: wailing and whining forum
Replies: 6
Views: 1461

Re: wailing and whining forum

I prefer flamewars and internet-tough-guyisms to nodding yesmen circle jerks. Text always comes out harsher than words. You can say the exact same words as you write but in face to face interactions, body language and reactions go a long way to smoothing things out. IME people who get pissed off onl...
by hafilax
Wed Jun 13, 2012 7:28 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Cypress Falls Bouldering Topo?
Replies: 19
Views: 4508

Re: Cypress Falls Bouldering Topo?

I was at Cypress Falls on the weekend. If you go, bring a big brush. It's super mossy right now.
by hafilax
Sun Aug 21, 2011 10:25 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Calling out the Hacks.
Replies: 25
Views: 6188

Re: Calling out the Hacks.

Thank goodness that kid DID choose to pull that stunt with people around. Imagine if he truly was solo! I don't think I would have taken the same tack as the OP but I certainly would have given him a piece of my mind. Maybe the OP meant something different but it read to me like he was telling the k...
by hafilax
Fri Feb 25, 2011 11:59 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Don't Steal Draws
Replies: 9
Views: 2007

Re: Don't Steal Draws

It was either a gumby who had no idea of the concept of leaving project draws or an A$%^#@ who stole them knowingly. Either way I doubt posting this here will have any effect unless the gumby starts bragging at the gym about the booty he "found". I wouldn't leave project draws at Neat and Cool. Ther...
by hafilax
Thu Sep 16, 2010 10:52 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Barley Routes
Replies: 42
Views: 11754

Just read an article strongly arguing against the use of staples as anchors from Jim Titt of Bolt Products. A few good articles including the glue in bolt one extract below can be found at: http://www.bolt-products.com/Glue-inBoltDesign.htm The Staple or U Bolt. You may or may not be aware that thes...
by hafilax
Sun Aug 29, 2010 12:18 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Barley Routes
Replies: 42
Views: 11754

Climbed The Great Drain yesterday. Fun day out. Interesting climbing and worth a go if the other 10- routes are packed.
by hafilax
Fri Aug 13, 2010 12:17 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Not Cool - Huge boulder dislodged by climbers on Opal Sunday
Replies: 27
Views: 7982

To be a route scrubber, is it a requirement to fly off the handle at the slightest hint of criticism?