Search found 28 matches

by itsonlyadream
Mon Aug 29, 2011 6:45 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Nice TR of Europa
Replies: 10
Views: 3306

Re: Nice TR of Europa

scrubber,

Millenium Falcon is in good shape up to Bellygood, at least.

It might interest you to know that one of the climbers ahead of Sibylle and myself was Russ Clune. Another was Eric H., one of the principals in the creation of Borderline.

Andy Cairns
by itsonlyadream
Wed Aug 10, 2011 8:08 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Bullethead East (4p, 10c) & Rainy Day Woman (4p, 11b)
Replies: 26
Views: 17557

Re: Bullethead East (4p, 10c) & Rainy Day Woman (4p, 11b)

We did this route by accident.


What the visitor had to say about it:

http://funclimbsaroundtheworld.com/?p=1307



Something Harry would make??

Something Harry would use!!

Good job, Harry.

Image
by itsonlyadream
Thu Oct 09, 2008 10:05 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: North North Arete
Replies: 15
Views: 7191

The "Birthing Pitch" it led up to its reputation as being reborn again but when the description say's awkward when wet I would say that even dry it is awkward so make sure its dry before you go. The birthing pitch isn't that bad when wet, so long as you're not the guy with the backpack like my budd...
by itsonlyadream
Thu Sep 04, 2008 6:39 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: rapping off hydro towers
Replies: 11
Views: 3128

Dru wrote:Maybe it was that accident in the late 80s where Paul Kao was rapping from the eyebolt cable on top of True Love/Picket Line and the cable tie failed and he fell 30m and broke his back?
Yes.
by itsonlyadream
Wed Sep 03, 2008 10:51 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: rapping off hydro towers
Replies: 11
Views: 3128

Almost 20 years ago I met someone who'd taken a bad fall and said the lesson to be learned was: don't rap from a hydro tower. I didn't find out what went wrong and looking at them I can't see an obvivous problem and I rapped once myself from one but it wouldn't be my 1st, 2nd, or 3rd choice.
by itsonlyadream
Mon Jun 02, 2008 8:47 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: upper black dyke
Replies: 4
Views: 1842

Re: upper black dyke

looking for beta on the upper black dyke. mostly on the bolting. are the cruxes bolted with easier climbing between or is it just runout climbing the whole way. You need to careful at the start, of course, where a fall would land you on the ledge. From what you see before you start you should get s...
by itsonlyadream
Sun May 25, 2008 7:54 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: multi pitch routes
Replies: 23
Views: 6684

i recall the split pillar being upgraded to 10b due to Sandbagging. havent heard it called 5.9. Strange link-up, NN Arete to Split Pillar, but recall: Split Pillar FFA 1975 (Eric Weinstein and Darryl Hatten) probably did not have cams, definitely no sticky rubber, so long cracks were harder when ge...
by itsonlyadream
Fri May 23, 2008 1:41 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Info on New Route at the CG Wall?
Replies: 4
Views: 2217

We are talking about 2 different climbs here. The one I mention begins to the far left of the Campground Wall, left of Rainy Day Dream Away. (the 5.10 finger crack). It wasn't in either guidebook. After ~25m of gear-protected corners and flakes(~5.9), a quartz dike runs horizontally to the right wi...
by itsonlyadream
Fri May 23, 2008 9:18 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Info on New Route at the CG Wall?
Replies: 4
Views: 2217

George put it up last summer. I forget what he called it but it's 5.12 something. Scary at the top too. He was thinking about going back and adding a bolt but I'm not sure if he did. I'll ask him tomorrow. This route is not left of Rainy Day (Dream Away) tho it might be left of Rainy Day (Woman) bu...
by itsonlyadream
Fri May 16, 2008 9:22 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Revisiting suggested grades - Forgotten Wall
Replies: 36
Views: 12023

i worked till 5pm and still had a full-day of climbing after that! GOOD. I see that I've talked a little too much, which always results in foot ending up in mouth. Please, don't anyone take offence at the suggestion that the hardest climbs may be "only" twice as hard as 10a. That is not a measure o...
by itsonlyadream
Fri May 16, 2008 9:04 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Movin'to Montana
Replies: 4
Views: 1872

J Mace wrote:I bailed after the first pitch as well, not sure how often if at all this gets climbed, I searched for folks who have been on this recently and never found any.

when did you climb it only dream ?
2006

and previously
by itsonlyadream
Thu May 15, 2008 9:21 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Revisiting suggested grades - Forgotten Wall
Replies: 36
Views: 12023

itsonlyadream, Sorry to call your experience "limited", i should have chosen my words more carefully, and i didn't mean to insult you. i apologize. i agree you can try to have an "objective" grade for a route, that's what "consensus" means, but if the consensus is that the grade is 5.whatever, it c...
by itsonlyadream
Thu May 15, 2008 8:16 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Movin'to Montana
Replies: 4
Views: 1872

Re: Movin'to Montana

Anyone do this route in the last couple years? The description sounds pretty cool, but I know someone who got on it a couple years back and found it so dirty that he was dynoing from grass clumps to muddy tree roots and came down after one pitch. Yes. I suppose you mean the current version which sk...
by itsonlyadream
Wed May 14, 2008 12:28 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Revisiting suggested grades - Forgotten Wall
Replies: 36
Views: 12023

just have fun and stop worrying about the grade. Excellent advice. Welcome to the glorious tradition of wasted breath. When I was doing climbs that were hard for their time and place I never thought about the grade. I only thought that I was as good a person to do them as anyone and the less I knew...
by itsonlyadream
Tue May 13, 2008 1:09 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Revisiting suggested grades - Forgotten Wall
Replies: 36
Views: 12023

I mean two grades in general, not just 11c/d and 11d/12a. Perhaps you could outline the objective method you use to identify these grades and how it is grades are consistent for who is climbing it. A reachy 12b for me may feel like a 11d for someone a foot taller. There is really no standard that c...