SquamishClimbing.com

I am afraid I must admit that the unfortunate name of the route is to my shame, because I was the one who suggested the title to Darryl for the route he was working on to the left of Black Dyke. We were camping on psyche leg and while looking up at the wall, he pointed to the line he was working on,...

Google Earth has added some new high resolution coverage on Northern Vancouver Island recently, and for the first time this gives a good view of the Wapiti Valley area and Dale Earnhardt dome. If you are interested, oint your program to 49.990854 degrees north and -126.727756 deg. west, the approxim...

Dooley wrote:Glad you came away from this without incident, but something really needs to be done cause someone is going to end up seriously injured or dead.

Or even seriously dead.

Neil and Gordie did it in Robbins shoes, a stiff tight blue wall shoe with a shallow vibram sole. I once had a pair of these. I managed to take a longish fall off of Sparrow the only time I tried them in Squamish. For these guys to do GR and White Lightning in such boots beggars the imagination. I ...

That description was from Gordy's old guidebook, the first one I ever bought back in the 1970's.

A quote I remember from some magazine back then is that the protection on GR was "three sweaters and a football helmet".

When we did A Question of Balance, there was a lot of lichen on it, hence the early grade of 5.10a. I rappelled down it a year or two later and brushed it a bit, but for some years, there were skid marks in the lichens, from where people slid off the runout bit. Graphic evidence. The first time I d...

The bolt protecting the 5.10d variation into the base of the elephant steps is a galvanized one, and not to be relied on. Is it the original one? I managed to do that variation once back in the late 1970's. EBs and all. As I recall it was a matter of stepping up on a crystal and then lunging for th...

Well it's easily worth the trip even if you just stand in the parking lot and gawk at that amazing piece of geology. And no access restrictions. As long as it's not too rainy to see the top, of course.

I found a link to some info one of the routes, Wapiti Mainline http://members.shaw.ca/eseedhouse/wapiti/dome.html This is now well out of date so take it with a grain of salt, I haven't updated it in several years. I understand the last bridge on Nomash main is no longer drivable, or at least not r...