Search found 16 matches

by Jeff Mottershead
Thu May 01, 2008 1:40 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: FFA of Europa 5.8
Replies: 26
Views: 12540

Thanks guys. A little thanks goes a long ways.

I've got pictures up now.
by Jeff Mottershead
Wed Apr 30, 2008 1:36 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: FFA of Europa 5.8
Replies: 26
Views: 12540

On the subject of falcon closures, I was sure that Matthew's description of things--no closures until they see nesting, and no nesting yet--was correct, but the world would be a better place if we stopped to check what we thought we were sure about now and then, so I asked a park ranger. Straight fr...
by Jeff Mottershead
Sun Apr 27, 2008 9:56 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: FFA of Europa 5.8
Replies: 26
Views: 12540

I reread Saar's and Vince's posts and now know where they went. The chimney they went up is part of the original Crap Crags line. For the Crap Crags experience, follow that chimney all the way to the top. Scott Webster and I did it a couple years ago and found it pretty sketchy as you'd need bros to...
by Jeff Mottershead
Sat Apr 26, 2008 8:02 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: FFA of Europa 5.8
Replies: 26
Views: 12540

I'd definitely agree with Vince's statement that despite the climbing being easy, evaluating the soundness of the rock requires a little more experience. I expect that within a year or two of regular ascents that the crumbly holds will be gone and that chalk and wear on the rock will make it easier ...
by Jeff Mottershead
Thu Feb 28, 2008 11:41 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Renaming a route after you clean it.
Replies: 28
Views: 8670

With regards to a the name, I was originally intending to just leave it as Crap Crags, despite most of the pitches going on different, parallel lines. A number of people told me I should give the new route a new name. What finally tipped it for me were a couple of points made by Kevin McLane, althou...
by Jeff Mottershead
Thu Oct 11, 2007 5:59 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: cleaning project
Replies: 17
Views: 9448

Kevin's work with the Squamish Access Society has him liasing with both city hall and BC Parks regarding climbing issues, which puts him in a unique position to gauge how the powers that be feel about what we're doing and what we should do and not do in order to keep them happy.
by Jeff Mottershead
Wed Sep 19, 2007 5:16 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: cleaning project
Replies: 17
Views: 9448

With regards to t-bones valid concerns about how the work being done fits in with the park, the park staff have been informed regularly since before cleaning began about what we're doing, methods, etc. There is no mechanism for the BC Parks to approve any action taken by anyone that is not park staf...
by Jeff Mottershead
Tue Sep 18, 2007 7:07 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: cleaning project
Replies: 17
Views: 9448

I'm sorry about the mess on Millennium Falcon. It's particularly bad now, because another person, developing some harder route that crosses Europa chopped off a bunch of trees we were going to leave, creating a bunch of stumps on Europa. We're trying to leave Europa stump-free, so they were pulled b...
by Jeff Mottershead
Sun Sep 16, 2007 8:47 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: cleaning project
Replies: 17
Views: 9448

With regards to putting a note up, at the base of the trail, I've bounced that off Kevin McLane. He's discouraged me from doing that, because he's concerned that people who are not climbers will see it, ask questions and raise a ruckus. I'll raise it with him again, and see if he sees things differe...
by Jeff Mottershead
Tue Aug 28, 2007 10:34 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: crap crags
Replies: 16
Views: 12916

I took a fairly big ground fall in Murrin after a cam that looked pretty bomber pulled. My ankle is now broken, so I won't be cleaning for two weeks or so. Some people from the VOC will continue cleaning, but having me out will probably push the completion date past October. I know that there are a ...
by Jeff Mottershead
Fri Aug 03, 2007 10:09 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: crap crags
Replies: 16
Views: 12916

Europa hits Trichome ledge a number of meters South of where the Crap Crags line did, on the other side of a large arete. This makes getting over to Clean Corner way easier. New pictures are up on the gallery. Most of them don't need an explanation, but the picture of the van with the engine out is ...
by Jeff Mottershead
Thu Jun 21, 2007 9:03 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: octopus garden--fatal accident
Replies: 11
Views: 6085

Well, there clearly is nothing close to a consensus, so I won't be pulling the tree. I should point out, though, that the majority of climbs in Squamish exist because someone pulled trees out of them. In all likelyhood the one that remains on Root Canal is just there because it was big enough that r...
by Jeff Mottershead
Tue Jun 19, 2007 10:28 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: octopus garden--fatal accident
Replies: 11
Views: 6085

I'd like to hear how people feel about that tree. If there is a general consensus that it ought not to be there, I'll pull it out this October.
by Jeff Mottershead
Sat Jun 16, 2007 6:20 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: crap crags
Replies: 16
Views: 12916

Photo Gallery The photos are in reverse chronological order. They give a decent topo of the route, and as you go further back, you see the climb get bushier and icier. Interspersed with that are numerous photos of broken gear. The photo of what appears to be a bathtub full of crude oil is me washin...
by Jeff Mottershead
Mon Jun 11, 2007 10:34 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: crap crags
Replies: 16
Views: 12916

Thanks a lot for the feedback from everyone. It's definately good to know any problems that I've caused, so that I can deal with them, and it getting positive feedback on this from people that I don't already know is really encouraging. With regards to Peter's suggestion about cleaning in the winter...