crap crags
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fist crack
- Casual Observer
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Sun Feb 06, 2005 9:11 pm
crap crags
this is a letter to the ambitious climber who has undertaken the overwhelming task of cleaning crap crags.
first of all, thanks for the effort, it must be daunting.
anyways, just a comment, you have left quite a mess on a couple of routes that are below crap crags, Millenium falcon and arrowroot in particular. there is alot of dirt on M.F. and a few large and dangerous trees and rocks hung at the top of arrowroot. I would suggest that you rappel down after each cleaning mission to make sure the routes below are clean and safe.
that's it, thanks for the effort.
fc
first of all, thanks for the effort, it must be daunting.
anyways, just a comment, you have left quite a mess on a couple of routes that are below crap crags, Millenium falcon and arrowroot in particular. there is alot of dirt on M.F. and a few large and dangerous trees and rocks hung at the top of arrowroot. I would suggest that you rappel down after each cleaning mission to make sure the routes below are clean and safe.
that's it, thanks for the effort.
fc
All inquiries should be sent to:
Jeff Mottershead
jeffigator@gmail.com
As for your comments about dirt on the other routes: Well what did you expect? He's cleaining 13+ pitches. And the falcon closure is in effect right now.
Jeff Mottershead
jeffigator@gmail.com
As for your comments about dirt on the other routes: Well what did you expect? He's cleaining 13+ pitches. And the falcon closure is in effect right now.
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thebigchin
- Junior Member
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- Joined: Tue Jul 26, 2005 8:29 am
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Jeff Mottershead
- Casual Observer
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Sun May 20, 2007 4:36 pm
Hi.
First of all, I'm sorry about screwing up Arrowroot. It's cleaned off now. I'll be getting Rutabaga cleaned off next week, and Millennium Falcon at the end of the falcon closure.
I'd like to be able to say that Arrowroot is going to be sparkling for the rest of the summer, but I can't realistically make that claim. Even when I'm not up working, there is a steady stream of dust coming down, which will dirty up routes below. Only after everything above is cleaned out will Arrowroot stay clean. I will periodically clean it out over the summer, and I won't let it get nearly as bad as it was.
With regards to the merits of the cleaning above, I should clarify a few things. The Varsity Outdoors Club, led by me are working on a new route, Europa, which will be 5.7 to the rim. It is in the area of Crap Crags, crossing it several times, but it is very much a different climb.
With regards to choss, there will be none when we are done. All but the first two pitches are now entirely free of choss. The vast amount that used to be there now lies at the base, a foot thick. When the route is finished, this too will be cleaned off.
It hasn't yet shown up on the message board, but people have raised concerns about the potential for hitting people below with stuff as we pull it off. All work from six weeks ago to the end of the climbing season will be taking place in either the rain or at night. We put up signs over the approach trails and if we're dropping a lot, we put yellow caution tape around the entire fall zone.
People have also been asking how long this is going to keep going. We're on schedule for the end of September.
Over this year, there will be neighbouring route that get dirty. I'll do my best to try to minimize it and clean it off as soon as possible, but it is impossible to keep them in a totally clean state. Please bear with us over the course of this year, and I promise that all the affected routes will be in as good shape as they ever have been by the time next climbing season rolls around.
First of all, I'm sorry about screwing up Arrowroot. It's cleaned off now. I'll be getting Rutabaga cleaned off next week, and Millennium Falcon at the end of the falcon closure.
I'd like to be able to say that Arrowroot is going to be sparkling for the rest of the summer, but I can't realistically make that claim. Even when I'm not up working, there is a steady stream of dust coming down, which will dirty up routes below. Only after everything above is cleaned out will Arrowroot stay clean. I will periodically clean it out over the summer, and I won't let it get nearly as bad as it was.
With regards to the merits of the cleaning above, I should clarify a few things. The Varsity Outdoors Club, led by me are working on a new route, Europa, which will be 5.7 to the rim. It is in the area of Crap Crags, crossing it several times, but it is very much a different climb.
With regards to choss, there will be none when we are done. All but the first two pitches are now entirely free of choss. The vast amount that used to be there now lies at the base, a foot thick. When the route is finished, this too will be cleaned off.
Definately not. There is lots of stuff with high potential. The reason to go ahead with the brutal work that we are doing to open up Europa is that a good 5.7 route from the base to the rim would be an exceptional asset, something that all of us have wished for at some point in their climbing career.Have we really run out of stuff to clean with high potential and need to go after the super choss?
All the loose, dirt and sh*t will be gone when we are done. All the trees obstructing the upper pitches are already gone, including the stumps. All the trees obstructing the bottom two pitches will be pulled out during the falcon closure. Moss is not really an issue. There wasn't much to start with. The biggest issue was trees, followed by dirt, followed by loose rock.i'm not certain why anyone would try to clean crap crags, which is the one of the loosest, dirtiest, shittiest lines in Squamish? and which will take all of 5 minutes before the moss grows back?
It hasn't yet shown up on the message board, but people have raised concerns about the potential for hitting people below with stuff as we pull it off. All work from six weeks ago to the end of the climbing season will be taking place in either the rain or at night. We put up signs over the approach trails and if we're dropping a lot, we put yellow caution tape around the entire fall zone.
People have also been asking how long this is going to keep going. We're on schedule for the end of September.
Over this year, there will be neighbouring route that get dirty. I'll do my best to try to minimize it and clean it off as soon as possible, but it is impossible to keep them in a totally clean state. Please bear with us over the course of this year, and I promise that all the affected routes will be in as good shape as they ever have been by the time next climbing season rolls around.
Europa
Just a quick note of support for this project - a 5.7 route to the rim would be an excellent choice, and will be worth the effort when 10 years from now its the most popular route on the Chief.
A little inconvenience to people on neighboring routes is worth it for something like this, and the amount of work necessary to clean a climb like Europa / Crap Crags is monumental. The VOC has put lots of blood and sweat into many climbing projects over the years, this is just the latest example.
Good job, just don't squish anyone with a rock!
Brian Pegg
A little inconvenience to people on neighboring routes is worth it for something like this, and the amount of work necessary to clean a climb like Europa / Crap Crags is monumental. The VOC has put lots of blood and sweat into many climbing projects over the years, this is just the latest example.
Good job, just don't squish anyone with a rock!
Brian Pegg
Brian Pegg
Kudos on the effort and I think it will be a fantastic addition 
But, if the work is only taking place in the rain and at night would it not be better to do most of the work during the winter when you can get the help of the winter rains?! Also, as you get higher on the route it's "dust effect" will cover more climbs during the height of the climbing season. JMO.....
But, if the work is only taking place in the rain and at night would it not be better to do most of the work during the winter when you can get the help of the winter rains?! Also, as you get higher on the route it's "dust effect" will cover more climbs during the height of the climbing season. JMO.....
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Jeff Mottershead
- Casual Observer
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Sun May 20, 2007 4:36 pm
Thanks a lot for the feedback from everyone. It's definately good to know any problems that I've caused, so that I can deal with them, and it getting positive feedback on this from people that I don't already know is really encouraging.
With regards to Peter's suggestion about cleaning in the winter, I should point out that we were up there all winter. The upper pitches are mainly done as a result. While winter has the advantage of having no people around, it is worse in all other respects. The days are really short, the water makes the dirt we pull out into mud. Dirt mostly bounces off the wall as it goes down, and a bit gets hung up. Mud on the other hand flows down the face and coats everything. Despite the wind scattering some of the dust, it certainly makes less of a mess to clean when dry. Another major winter problem is that right above pitch 3, there is a roof where literally tonnes of ice builds up and periodically falls off. When I go to set up the warning signs during the winter, I step over all kinds of fallen ice-bombs.
Working summer nights is much more productive than winter days, because I get to go up and come down in the light. Moving the ropes around also works much better when they aren't covered in mud. Frozen mud sometimes happens in the winter, and that's even worse.
Bottom line is that if work was restricted to winter only, this would be a two or three year project, rather than just one. I think it is in everyone's best interest to get this wrapped up as quickly as possible. That means working year round, and choosing the right season for each task: big blocks, chainsaw work, upper pitches: winter. Lower pitches, fine scrubbing, stump pulling that uses equipment that shouldn't get wet: summer.
As a side note, I've been noticing the fixed line and fallen trees of someone who is cleaning out something between Millennium Falcon and Deadend Dihedral. They appear to be making good progress, so it appears that the community is going to get two new routes for the hassle of one.
Some photos from the weekend:
With regards to Peter's suggestion about cleaning in the winter, I should point out that we were up there all winter. The upper pitches are mainly done as a result. While winter has the advantage of having no people around, it is worse in all other respects. The days are really short, the water makes the dirt we pull out into mud. Dirt mostly bounces off the wall as it goes down, and a bit gets hung up. Mud on the other hand flows down the face and coats everything. Despite the wind scattering some of the dust, it certainly makes less of a mess to clean when dry. Another major winter problem is that right above pitch 3, there is a roof where literally tonnes of ice builds up and periodically falls off. When I go to set up the warning signs during the winter, I step over all kinds of fallen ice-bombs.
Working summer nights is much more productive than winter days, because I get to go up and come down in the light. Moving the ropes around also works much better when they aren't covered in mud. Frozen mud sometimes happens in the winter, and that's even worse.
Bottom line is that if work was restricted to winter only, this would be a two or three year project, rather than just one. I think it is in everyone's best interest to get this wrapped up as quickly as possible. That means working year round, and choosing the right season for each task: big blocks, chainsaw work, upper pitches: winter. Lower pitches, fine scrubbing, stump pulling that uses equipment that shouldn't get wet: summer.
As a side note, I've been noticing the fixed line and fallen trees of someone who is cleaning out something between Millennium Falcon and Deadend Dihedral. They appear to be making good progress, so it appears that the community is going to get two new routes for the hassle of one.
Some photos from the weekend:
Cool cleaning tools
Hey Jeff can you post more pics?
I have cleaned many routes but have not yet resorted to a come-along. Nice choice! I had not thought of that for stump pulling.....
Good luck stay safe.
I have cleaned many routes but have not yet resorted to a come-along. Nice choice! I had not thought of that for stump pulling.....
Good luck stay safe.
Brian Pegg
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Jeff Mottershead
- Casual Observer
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- Joined: Sun May 20, 2007 4:36 pm
Photo Gallery
The photos are in reverse chronological order. They give a decent topo of the route, and as you go further back, you see the climb get bushier and icier. Interspersed with that are numerous photos of broken gear.
The photo of what appears to be a bathtub full of crude oil is me washing my pack.
The photos are in reverse chronological order. They give a decent topo of the route, and as you go further back, you see the climb get bushier and icier. Interspersed with that are numerous photos of broken gear.
The photo of what appears to be a bathtub full of crude oil is me washing my pack.
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itsonlyadream
- Junior Member
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:08 am
Mikey wrote:Jeff--
Cleaning Crap Crags should be great practice for scrubbing up that nightmare North North Arete.Good luck!
_
Mike Hengeveld
Yes, Jeff. Start at that end and work south.
A paranoid could look forward to when the Chief resembles construction season in the big city
.Personally, I commend your vision. That section of cliff offers nice picnic spots and good views of Grand Wall.
Mikey will get better access to Clean Corner.
As a matter of fact, Clean Corner is the reason I first got on Crap Crags--we had ambitions to follow Crap Crags to a point and then break off right to the base of the aforementioned. Alas, working around giant blocks and bushes proved to be more than we could handle so we followed Crap Crags to its conclusion. Hope access improves as a result of Jeff's good work--Clean Corner is an awesome route!
Mikey
Mikey
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