Flex Capacitor, 2p, 5.9, 10c

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Flex Capacitor, 2p, 5.9, 10c

Postby Optimally-Primed » Sat Aug 27, 2011 9:36 pm

Announcing a new 2p crack adventure at the base of the Grand Wall: Flex Capacitor. Yes indeed, you'll need 1.21 Jigawatts for this one. If you don't know what I'm talking about, go back and watch the best movie of all time, Back to the Future.

Pitch 1 is a long finger-locking corner (5.9).

Pitch 2 is an arch, reminiscent of Perry's Layback, only easier (10c) and gear protectable almost throughout. 2 bolts when it gets really wide at the top.

Here's a topo.

And photos:
The whole climb from the base: Pitch 1 up the corner; pitch 2 up the arch.
Image


A look from the belay atop pitch 1 at pitch 2.
Image
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Re: Flex Capacitor, 2p, 5.9, 10c

Postby scrubber » Sun Aug 28, 2011 4:01 pm

Oh my that looks good. Nice work guys!

But wait! Now more people will be right beside Java Jive and might want to do it... Jeremy turns another obscure area into a popular destination. Maybe the other routes will stay clean now.
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Re: Flex Capacitor, 2p, 5.9, 10c

Postby PJH » Mon Aug 29, 2011 6:09 pm

Interesting name: Flex Capacitor ... with a picture of a Flux Capacitor on the topo? Is it flexy?

Looks super fun.
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Re: Flex Capacitor, 2p, 5.9, 10c

Postby t-bone » Tue Aug 30, 2011 8:05 pm

Climbed this route today...awesome cleaning job! The climb makes an excellent addition to the Base of the Grand.
p1 was still a bit wet but no big deal and the start of p2 had a few 'flaky' footholds, but they'll clean up in no time.
A #3.5 cam also works well at the start of p2.

Great work....
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Re: Flex Capacitor, 2p, 5.9, 10c

Postby gnarnaphobe » Thu Sep 01, 2011 8:26 am

Got on the new route last night, it was super fun. Pitch 2 seemed quite a bit easier then the grade of 10c suggests. Felt less technical then Exasperator, and less pumpy than apron strings, but more hard moves in a row then Arrowroot to compare it to a few routes in the area. I would grade it 10b tops.
It WAS quite reminiscent of perrys, and as Scrubber mentioned there is a good chance it will direct more attention to Java Jive.

Here's a pic of my beautiful girlfriend getting her undercling on!


Image
finishing it up by thekidcormier, on Flickr

-luke
Imaging how much funner this could be with booze and explosives
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Re: Flex Capacitor, 2p, 5.9, 10c

Postby Dru » Sun Sep 11, 2011 8:59 am

So going by the Campbell guide topo it seems that the first 5.9 pitch of this route is the same corner climbed by Hangup? (Cousins/Sinclair 1972, FFA Campbell/Milward 1984)
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Re: Flex Capacitor, 2p, 5.9, 10c

Postby Optimally-Primed » Mon Sep 12, 2011 9:15 am

So going by the Campbell guide topo it seems that the first 5.9 pitch of this route is the same corner climbed by Hangup? (Cousins/Sinclair 1972, FFA Campbell/Milward 1984)


more or less, yes (as noted on the topo). I believe that Hangup exits left at about 2/3 height on P1.
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Re: Flex Capacitor, 2p, 5.9, 10c

Postby Optimally-Primed » Mon Sep 12, 2011 11:42 am

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