New Crag "starvation" with main route "The Revenant" 5.13c

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New Crag "starvation" with main route "The Revenant" 5.13c

Postby davidec » Wed Sep 21, 2016 2:13 pm

There is a new climbing crag we are developing since last year. We called it "Starvation" We will be happy to get your feedback and also confirm some grades. The area is nearby Starvation Lake in check. 2 minute walk from the highway. Steep, bouldery, power endurance climbs. Bolted with rap anchors in the top from 12d to 13c (grades are opinionated). Go get swollen on this new little playground. Contact me if you need beta or info since I bolted all the lines. All the routes have been climbed. The highlight "The Revenant - 5.13c"

you can get the Topos online from here:
https://27crags.com/crags/starvation


David.
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Re: New Crag "starvation" with main route "The Revenant" 5.1

Postby tomhwright » Thu Sep 22, 2016 7:31 am

HI David,

can't find any information on how to get to this wall. Got some directions?
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Re: New Crag "starvation" with main route "The Revenant" 5.1

Postby davidec » Thu Sep 22, 2016 9:20 am

There is a google doc I'm posting here with a map for the access.

https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/ ... sp=sharing
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Re: New Crag "starvation" with main route "The Revenant" 5.1

Postby Squamishmonkey » Tue Sep 27, 2016 2:12 pm

Hi David,
I climbed at your new crag.
With all due respect to the effort, time and cost required in developing a new area and not wishing to offend may I suggest you finish the area before releasing topos.
With the amount of remaining loose blocks ranging from chips to chest size, some of which i pulled off by hand today, you might hurt another member of the climbing community.
I climbed the 12d and the 13a, both of which you lower into trees. The 1st bolt on the 12d is higher than an average stick clip can reach and the opening section has only had the holds that you used brushed, everything else is untouched by a wire brush, some of which is suspect. Directly above the belayer are a number of huge blocks that need to be pried, once higher up on the wall things improve greatly.
I persisted and tried the 13a, part of the 2nd hold snapped and would easily come out with a pry bar. However, mostly alarmingly, the top of the 13a has a whole section of rock that I could pull out by hand or blocks that are so hollow I would not touch them in case they cut my rope or killed my belayer.
The crag is in a nice area and has amazing views but the ledges are full of bushes and loose flakes.
Regards
Eric
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Re: New Crag "starvation" with main route "The Revenant" 5.1

Postby Peter » Fri Sep 30, 2016 8:36 pm

Hi, the name "The Revenant" has already been taken. I guess it's debatable where the official registrar of climbing names is, but I sent mine to a guidebook author a ways back. Btw, it's in Rogues beside Sanctuary. Having said all that, 2 routes of the same name could be fine too
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Re: New Crag "starvation" with main route "The Revenant" 5.1

Postby davidec » Mon Nov 21, 2016 10:46 pm

Hi Eric,
Thanks for your feedback on the crag and the hazards you encountered which is concerning. This area is under development and hasn't been sent to the Squamish guidebook or climbers access to make it official. The clean-up, bolting and crowbar work has taken 2 summers of work. We are not using supporting glue or heavy industrial machinery to fully scan and brush out all the rock surface as done in other areas. Any off route pieces on the 12d I was not able to pull myself, I marked with an X. I also did some due diligence bringing people of different experiences and levels to climb and had little complaint - only excitement - hence why I posted it. That being said, I'd like to take the forum posting down until I can go back and further check for these problem areas. Can you let me know what is the section of hollow rock you refer to so I can remove it if possible? I'm happy to go with you to re-assess the risk factors such as loose rock or landing nearby a three (as it is a young tree, we did not want to remove it). In general we have to be mindful that many new crags emerging (example KLO) around BC are not perfect upon opening and all have more cleanup work to do which can only happen with more climbers visiting the crag and offering feedback such as you have. Cheers - David.
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Re: New Crag "starvation" with main route "The Revenant" 5.1

Postby Squamishmonkey » Mon Nov 28, 2016 2:56 pm

Hi David,
I am happy to meet you and go there with you to help finish the area.
Please contact me directly we have a number of common finds on FB.
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